The Rebirth of Cool: Agua Lands at Nali Patio

It’s likely that most people who were familiar with Agua’s original spot at Ch’ien Men 23 will welcome the restaurant’s revival and relocation to the more accessible surrounds of Nali Patio. Indeed, it’s hard to see anyone who enjoys good food not finding something to like about this place.

Agua’s move to Nali is a tale of change and continuity. Whereas the old Agua was all passionate reds, the new design is less sexy, featuring a simple two-tone color scheme, paintings of bullfighters and flamenco dancers, and Arabesque lampshades. It’s quietly classy, setting a tone that allows the food to do the talking.

Peering through the kitchen’s tinted windows, we find continuity in the reassuring form of bespectacled chef Jordi Valles, arguably Beijing’s most instantly recognizable chef and certainly among the capital’s best. Those who know Valles’ form will dive straight in and order his trademark suckling pig with apricots and shallots (RMB 198). The suckling pig also appears on a menu of several dishes that can be ordered to share. All of those have a 45-minute waiting time, so you might order some tapas to start off, or one of six signature cocktails (RMB 58).

For newcomers, the RMB 308 tasting menu or three-course lunch sets (RMB 99, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm) are an excellent entry point. There’s something distinctly rustic about much of the fare. Initially this is a surprise, but mouthful by mouthful, your heart warms to the point where you feel like a nap on the living room sofa and some Sunday afternoon TV beckon in the next room. For proof, order the melt-in-the-mouth stew of lentils, tender chorizo, ham and pork belly, or the pumpkin soup with poached egg. We’ll be back.

Standout dishes: Suckling pig, pumpkin soup
Also try: Carmen, Modo, Niajo

Agua
Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-11pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District
(5208 6188) 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园4层

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