Beijing Food Walks #3: Meishuguan Dongjie

View Meishuguan Food Walk in a larger map

Meishuguan Dongjie is great for two reasons. One: it's a Beijing road with a bend. Yes, a bend, a graceful 90 degree arc like the wing of an angel. And two: it's prime hunting ground for authentic regional Chinese restaurants. This walk of sorts (more of a stroll) starts in Dafosi Dongjie, a busy alley with lots of snack shops, and this marvellous Guizhou restaurant, Junqinhua (君琴花, no. 47). Despite a tiny, nondescript interior, the dishes explode with vivid colour and spice (courtesy of the fermented chillis). You can't see by the photo but they now have a roof terrace. Bring on those warm evenings.

Just across the street, at Zengshengkui Snack Bar, be sure to pick up one or two freshly-baked shaobing.

Special not just for their crispy sesame shells and layers of soft, flaky dough - check out the hot filling of ground beef and veggies. Yum.

Walking south, you'll soon come to Huangheshui Snacks (no. 24). This is the place for authentic biang biang noodles and everyone's favourite Chinese hamburger with a license to thrill (roujiamo). Best of all, it's open 24 hours. Just the place after ladies night at Xiu.

This chef stands by the entrance kneading and cooking the unleavened bing rolls for the roujiamo - pop your head in the door and marvel at his speed and dexterity...

...and the ancient old hanging cooker they're baked on. Rustic-chic.

A quick diversion east down Cuifu Jiadao and you'll get to Dangui (no. 25), a super little Guilin-style eatery. Step through the door and the pungent yet appealing smell of suansun whacks you in the face like a big fermented pillow. Mouth-watering....

This popular spot brings it all back home with its red hot, nightly grilled meat fest. Dahuaishu (no. 23) is a bastion of lao Beijing barbecued meat, set back off the main road in a little green area just east of the National Art Museum of China.

I should give a quick disclaimer - this is potentially the most dangerous restaurant on earth. Every night, staff race through the packed dining room across greasy floors holding flaming braziers of white hot coals. Terrifying but tasty. A bit like Evil-Lyn from that He-Man movie with Dolph Lundgren.

With dozens of heavy table-top grills covered in pork, lamb, squid, and kidney (pictured), the sweaty dining room is a maelstrom of flying grease and spitting fat. Eww. So don't wear your Sunday best, and make use of the boxes under every table - they're meant for your coats, bags, cameras etc. Enjoy.