Mediterranean Magic: Mighty Moussaka at George's

The soft lighting here is dusky enough to relax diners, but the moussaka (RMB 58) brightens everything up. We quite enjoyed digging down through the stretchy skin, a creamy layer of béchamel sauce, grated parmesan and mozzarella, to scoop up a piping-hot mix of succulent eggplant and minced lamb – just like a pasta-free lasagna.

Porcini mushroom risotto (RMB 98) came al dente, perfumed with truffle oil and finished with shaved parmesan and peppery arugula – a classic Mediterranean combination. And the chef, who has worked at Taverna, produces a hummus (RMB 35) and vegetable antipasti (RMB 48) that are quite reliable.

Proprietor George Wong, the restaurant’s namesake, also owns nearby Ming Yuan, the Cantonese hideaway that delights in-the-know gourmands. Keep an eye on this guy – he seems to specialize in hidden gems.

Standout dishes: Moussaka, porcini mushroom risotto
Also try: Taverna, Sureño

George’s Mediterranean Cuisine 佐治地中海餐厅
Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm. 1A Fangcaodi Beixiang, Chaoyang District (8561 3357)
朝阳区芳草地北巷甲1号

Photos: Judy Zhou