Art Hike: Songzhuang
For those who might have been out of town, the August issue of our magazine featured five Art Hikes: short pedestrian routes in five of Beijing's artsy areas (from the obvious like 798 to the non-obvious like Sanlitun). Included in those routes were stops at not only galleries and other art venues, but also restaurants, cafes, shops and the like, for full- or half-days of cultured constitutionals.
We figured the October holiday would be a good time to try some of these walks out (if you haven't already been). This one is not for the faint of heart.
SONGZHUANG
Drop-off location: Songzhuang Art Museum (D)
How to get there: From Dabeiyao Nan (大北窑南) bus stop (directly under Guomao Qiao), take Bus 808 to Songzhuang Meishuguan (宋庄美术馆). First bus 6am, last bus 9pm. Takes roughly an hour each way.
Specialty gear: Comfortable shoes, bottled water, snacks and a compass. In the summertime, sunscreen and/or umbrella very strongly advised.
Camouflage: Practical wear. None of the other visitors is trying to impress anybody else. They’re too busy trying to survive.
Flora: A few disturbingly edgy installations surrounded by tons of galleries filled with oil paintings.
Fauna: Artists, aspiring documentarists, gallery owners and their friends. Foreigners are rare.
Trailhead: You wanted an adventure, so launch yourself headlong into Songzhuang Art Museum (1). Under the direction of the Godfather of Chinese Contemporary Art himself, Li Xianting, the museum deals in strictly avant-garde terms. Be prepared for art that goes beyond provocative to downright disturbing.
Pit stop: The long bus ride and demanding conceptual art mean lunch comes early. Head to Mina’s Restaurant (2), grab a rattan fan from the basket, order an inky pitcher of mint-plum juice and nibble on gleaming morsels of kung pao fish. Tired of walking already? Rent a bike from the friendly Mina’s staff.
Watering Hole: The terrain – the long blocks of a charmless office park – is unfriendly. No one will blame you for needing some caffeinated refreshment and human interaction. Fanhall Coffee (3) is an oasis of social activity in an otherwise Dali-esque landscape, and the attached Fanhall Films works with the Li Xianting Film Fund to organize Beijing’s (sort of) annual Documentary Festival. Brush up on underground film while fueling up. Fanhall’s currently on break from screenings, but chat it up with the staff and regulars to find out more.
Onward: From Mina’s, head east across the main street until you find G-Dot Art Space (4) to your left, and Long De Xuan (LDX) Contemporary Art Center (5) to your right. A private space, G-Dot specializes in high production exhibits in an impressive vaulted hall. LDX is one of the stalwarts of Songzhuang and shows paintings, sculptures, video, installations and the like.
Souvenir Shops: Ha.
Hazards: You may start to believe that the entire world is an art installation. Symptoms: Mumbling to yourself as you peer at a “sculpture” of toilet brushes … “This appears deeply sincere. Which makes it even more successful as a kitsch gesture?”
First aid: Hop back on the 808 (or flag down a cab) and head south a couple stops to Xiaopu Shangye Guangchang (小堡商业广场). Across the street, the National Defense Art Zone (Guofang Yishu Qu) is a general waste of space, except for Puyan (6), a beautiful and well-stocked bomb shelter-turned wine cellar. Lin Biao used the space to escape attack through the tumultuous early 20th century, and now you can use it to escape the otherworldliness of Songzhuang. Call ahead at 5210 0820 to schedule a wine tasting for your group or pick up a bottle or two at warehouse prices to enjoy at home.