Grape Press: Winter Warmers

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.

With cold winter winds engulfing Beijing, solace can be found in full-bodied reds from warmer climes. But what is meant by the word “body”?

Full-bodied wines are typically those with a high degree of alcohol, sugar or tannin, or a combination of all three (e.g. port). A helpful analogy is the contrasting mouthfeel of milk at different fat contents: skimmed milk is “light-bodied,” semi-skimmed “medium-bodied,” and full-fat milk or even cream weighs in as “full-bodied.”

Something similar occurs with the mouthfeel of wines. For light-bodied whites, think dry Riesling; for a full-bodied white, try oaked Chardonnay, especially from somewhere warm. Most Pinot Noir would be classed as light-bodied with wines based on Merlot usually being medium- to full-bodied. Truly full-bodied reds would include the most concentrated examples of Cabernet Sauvignon. These selections are all full-bodied reds suitable for winter fare.

ONE TO SIP
2009 Santa Rita Reserva Carmènere, Maipo Valley, Chile
(RMB 147, ASC)
Available at Chynna, Vasco’s
Deep ruby in color, the nose offers the intense black fruit and herbaceous green aromas of Carmènere, here with blackcurrant, green bean and attractive oak aromas. High chewy tannins on the palate, with lovely black fruits, medium-high acidity, high but well-balanced alcohol and good length.

ONE TO SAVOR
2009 Argento Reserva Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina
(RMB 148, Mercuris)
Available at Gori, Metro
Deep purple in color, this has the trademark prune and damson fruit of Malbec with pleasant oak followed up by a palate marked by medium-high coating tannins, high alcohol, abundant fruit, lifting acidity and satisfying length.

ONE TO QUAFF
2009 Two Hands Angels’ Share Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia
(RMB 438, Aussino)
Check www.aussino.net for retailers
Two Hands sources some of the loveliest Shiraz fruit in Australia. Very dark ruby color, with lovely blueberry, black cherry fruit and integrated oak. Chewy medium-high tannins on the palate with lush fruit, high alcohol, medium acid and impressive length.

Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.

Click here to see the December issue of the Beijinger in full.