Bread Carpet: Bagel Bites at Chaoyang Park

There’s a reason why the blue whale is the biggest creature we’ve got. It represents a biological tipping point – any larger and it would cave in uselessly like an enormous, briny soufflé. I’m starting to think similar laws apply to bagels in Beijing. Judging by the few places that bake their own, any wider than a coffee cup here and it’s bye-bye bagel. Maybe it’s the pollution?

It’s the same deal at Rug Bagel & Café. Though authentically dense, the bagels are so dinky you could use one to rescue a drowning earthworm. Even with its side of fluffy home fries, the lox and cream cheese bagel (RMB 88) was more munchies than meal – which irks a bit at this price, though it does include a coffee or tea. If you’re hungry, go for the Eggs Benedict bagel brunch (RMB 78), which by virtue of being served open has twice the filling. Other mains include soups, sandwiches, delicate pasta dishes and salad bowls. The “warm Rug salad” (RMB 58) features a good variety of crisp leaves, bacon bits and a soft-boiled egg.

As a place for a light bite or a lazy coffee, Rug is just the ticket – earthy furnishings decorate an airy, elegant space dotted with thoughtful details like fresh flowers, tinkling classical music and recycled napkins. What’s more, their commitment to locally sourced, seasonal ingredients is laudable. But until the kitchen gets a bit more generous, getting a decent feed remains a work in progress.

Standout dishes: Eggs Benedict bagel brunch, pumpkin soup

Also try: Pekotan

Rug Bagel & Cafe Daily 11.30am-10pm. Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite south gate of Chaoyang Park), Chaoyang District (8550 2722) 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4号楼 (朝阳公园南门对面)

Click here to see the January issue of the Beijinger in full.

Photos: Judy Zhou