Grape Press: Viva Los Vinos

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.

Though Spain may be the subject of Eurozone woes, since it joined the EU in 1986, its vineyards and wineries have experienced a quality revolution. In fact, Spain is one of the most exciting of the so-called Old World countries, preserving both its vinous heritage and embracing the winemaking know-how of the nominal New World.

This has meant improved wines in traditional regions such as Rioja and a widening of interest outside the likes of Ribera del Duero and Priorat (much trumpeted by Robert Parker Jr. in the 1990s). Thus, you’re just as likely today to hear wine lovers enthuse about such regions as Bierzo, Rueda, Toro, Jumilla or Monsant as some of the betterknown areas.

Mercifully, a fair number of these clean, fruity, modern wines are reaching China’s shores. This month’s selections all demonstrate what “The New Spain” can offer.

ONE TO QUAFF
2011 Torres Viña Sol, Catalunya, Spain
(Everwines, RMB 133)
Available from Middle 8th, Xu Xian Lou
Torres may be no stranger to Chinese consumers, but Miguel Torres led the way for the current Spanish revolution. From the Parellada grape, this is medium green in color with attractive green apple and lemon citrus fruit. A refreshing palate of medium-high acidity with good length. Very food-friendly.

ONE TO DRINK
2007 Abadal Crianza, Plà de Bagés, Spain
(Ruby Red, RMB 198) beijing@rubyred.com.cn
An intriguing blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from this tiny Catalonian region. Deep ruby in color with attractive black and red plum, with distinct vanilla and clove-scented oak. The palate is ripe, medium to full-bodied with medium acidity, ripe fruits and good length.

ONE TO SAVOR
2009 Pagos del Moncayo Syrah, Campo de Borja, Spain
(DS Wines, RMB 210)
Available from Niajo, Loaf Cafe
Very modern in style and, again, made from a non-Spanish grape, Syrah. Deep purple color with very ripe black cherry and prune fruit as well as vanilla and coconut oak. The palate is full-bodied with lovely ripe fruits, medium acidity and very good length.

Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.

Click here to see the June issue of the Beijinger in full.