Grape Press: Portugal Rising
“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.
Like its neighbor Spain, Portugal has experienced a huge jump in quality wine production over the last two decades. But what makes Portugal especially distinctive is its focus on mainly indigenous grapes.
Touriga Nacional is probably best known because of its importance in the famous Douro region – traditionally known for the fortified wine dubbed Port, and now home also to exciting table wines. But Touriga Nacional and such varied grapes as Touriga Franca, Perquita and the especially perfumed Trincadeira are also grown elsewhere in Portugal to produce wines of increasingly high quality.
Nor is the Portuguese story confined to red wine grapes. This month’s selections include an intriguing white and two modern reds, blending native and international grapes. Portugal’s grapes and regions may be hard to pronounce, but give them a try!
ONE TO QUAFF
2010 Malhadinha Nova “Monte da Peceguina” White, Alentejano, Portugal
(Globus, RMB 208)
Available exclusively at TRB
From one of Portugal’s new-wave producers, this is a highly drinkable blend based on the white grape Antão Vaz. Light to medium green-gold in color with a lovely nose of lemon citrus, white flowers and a touch of peach. The palate is light-bodied with a refreshing zing of acidity. Very food-friendly.
ONE TO DRINK
2004 Cortes de Cima Vinho Tinto, Alentejano, Portugal
(Wine Culture, RMB 350)
Available at Hotel G, Vasco’s
Another modern winery with a cult following. This enticing blend is deep garnet in color with an attractive nose of mellowing red and black fruits, with spicy oak and earthy aromas. Medium- to full-bodied on the palate with floral ripe fruits, integrated acidity and good length.
ONE TO SAVOR
2006 Domaine Bento & Chapoutier “Ex Aequo” Red, Estremadura, Portugal
(Everwines, RMB 532)
Available at www.everwines.com
An intriguing blend of the French grape Syrah with Touriga Nacional, from a winery working with French legend Michel Chapoutier. Dark ruby in color, this has lovely black cherry fruit with integrated oak. Full-bodied with ripe, chewy tannins, abundant black fruits, lifting acidity and impressive length.
Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.
Click here to see the Beijinger July issue in full.
