Not-So-Giant Panda: New Brew Pub at Beixinqiao

I had already trudged once up and once back down a hutong looking for Panda Brew Pub, and hadn't found the place. I was tempted to call this a minor defeat, cut my losses and make my way home. But I decided to have another go, and just 20 meters up Beixinqiao Toutiao (the same hutong I'd been down before), there it was on the left side of the alleyway.

Panda Brew Pub doesn't stand out particularly – the main landmark for marking the spot is a cafe directly opposite. At a maximum area of around 15 square meters and capacity of fewer than 15 customers, it's also the latest contender for the title of "smallest bar in Beijing." But the place has the makings of a success story, especially if co-owner Pan Dinghao's home-brewed beer lives up to the potential of the Honey Porter I tasted.

Pan wasn't having his best night when I went around – thanks to a late order to supply 180 liters for a friend's party, he was on the very last drops of his own brew. He's got six taps raring to go, but at present he's only able to produce three beers for sale. Those three are that drinkable porter I mentioned earlier, a pale ale and an IPA, and they're all RMB 40 a pint. A member of the Beijing Homebrewing Society, Pan knows his beer, and talks at length about discovering brewing as a hobby while studying automotive engineering in Canada, the challenges of Beijing's air pollution for local brewers, and why the life of a brewer and bar owner means his dog doesn't get walked until 3am.

The house brews are the thing to come for, but there's also a respectable set of around 20 to 30 imported bottled craft brews. Most are American or Belgian, and there's not a Tsingtao in sight – expect to spend RMB 30-45 per drink rather than RMB 15). Pan recommended the Dry Hopped St. Rogue Red Ale, which was excellent, and good value at RMB 30. I've never seen the US-brewed Morimoto Soba Ale – if you want something a little different go for that.

Pan is eager to increase his brewing capacity, and says he hopes to open another two venues by the summer. On first evidence, he'll soon have enough customers to fill this little watering hole several times over.

Panda Brew Pub. Daily 6pm-midnight. Beixinqiao Toutiao (20m east off Yonghegong Dajie), Dongcheng District 东城区北新桥头条 （雍和宫大街往东走20米）