Capital Bites: New Kro's Nests, Taco Salads, and White Truffles


Agua's caramelized mango tart with lemon and basil custard (RMB 68)

Fall dishes keep rolling out and with the sudden drop in temperature, it almost feels likely that what chefs haven't managed to introduce in their autumnal fare might just skip directly to winter.

I had the chance to tour Agua's new additions to the menu. They've got five novel items, each dish topping the last with the particularly delightful seared tuna and the beef cheek with rich, earthy shavings of black truffle. The caramelized mango tart was decidedly an "adult" dessert, agreed our table. Take that for what you will, but it was delicious.

A pork skewer "moruno" style with chickpeas and leek (RMB 28 per piece)


"Mallorquin" mini sandwiches, made of sobrassada homemade sausage and cheese (RMB 58)


Seared Spanish tuna loin and belly, cider apple and cauliflower (RMB 230)


Wagyu beef cheek, balsamic figs and black truffle pumpkin purée (RMB 258)

Back Alley Bistro started celebrating their one-year anniversary on October 10. They'll be running month-long specials each day, plus 50 percent off wine bottles over RMB 600. Chef Jeff Powell has introduced a number of new dishes for the season, including fish and chips, a bacon and egg salad, a taco salad, cedar plank roast salmon and fried chicken. He's also begun serving brunch daily at both Frost and Back Alley.

If you'd prefer to stay healthy on the couch, then check out Healthieatz's new menu for autumn. They've launched three new meals: a quinoa arugula vegetarian salad, a lean kung pao chicken, and a lean paleo beef stew. Additionally, carb add-ons have increased 20 percent but remained the same price. (I'm still skeptical that anyone actually truly enjoys the paleo diet. This seems to be a potential confirmation of that suspicion.) Order through Sherpa's here.

Kro's Nest is franchising and you can find them springing up at the Joy City on Chaoyang Beilu and in the very freshly opened Galeries Lafayette in Xidan.

Also in Galeries Lafayette, you will find upscale chocolatier Jean-Paul Hevin, who has surrounded us from three cardinal directions with shops in Paris, Hong Kong and Japan and now made his entrance into Beijing. I suppose Vladivladstock to the north was not so appealing a locale, and I'm glad we won out. Sure, pizza's okay, but I'll be heading to the mall for fine chocolates, thank you. We'll let you know how that turns out.

Finally, for all you high rollers – or those willing to live the fantasty – if expensive chocolates aren't enough and you want to drop some real cash, treat yourself right with white truffles. Chef Umberto Bombana is travelling north from Hong Kong and it's sure to be a series of stunning meals at Opera Bombana. On the evenings of October 25, 26 and 27 you can enjoy a five-course menu featuring white truffles from Alba. Prices are RMB 1,888 (plus ten percent) or RMB 2,388 (plus ten percent) including wine pairings. Pricey for the average being, but certainly the value will be there. Reserve at 5690 7177.

Photos: Cat Nelson, Back Alley Bistro

Email: catnelson@thebeijinger.com
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