La Cevicheria at Migas Launches this Friday, Aug 7

Hot on the heels of Beijing's first pop-up ceviche bar, Buena Onda, comes La Cevicheria at The Bar at Migas. Set in the downstairs bar area (note: not the rooftop), La Cevicheria will be open from 6-10pm, Wednesday to Sunday. Expect the pop-up to stick around until early October when they shut the rooftop and bring the bar back downstairs.

The menu, designed by Aitor Olabegoya and a new Peruvian chef who has recently joined the Migas team, covers a selection of tiraditos (sliced raw fish in a spicy fruit-based sauce), ceviche (cubed fish "cooked" in a sour marinade), and causa (mashed potato dumplings with a variety of toppings).

At a tasting on Wednesday night, we got to sample around half of the menu. Highlights include the yellow tail tiradito with passion fruit (RMB 88), with a good kick of heat; the classic seabass ceviche (RMB 68), garnished the traditional Peruvian way with sweetcorn and sweet potato; and the leche de pantera (RMB 48), a chilled sour soup tinted panther-black by the black clams marinating inside. From the non-seafood side of things, we loved the tequenos (RMB 98), crispy parcels stuffed with braised wagyu beef and served with guacamole. 

Since we're in imaginary Peru, we're going to need a pisco sour to go with that ceviche. The pisco sours are available in classic, raspberry, and mango flavors (RMB 35) and are up there with the best we've had in a while – highly fragrant and topped with a silken egg white foam. If we were to pick holes, they could have used a touch more sourness, but the team are aware of this and searching for better limes to up the ante. Top tip: don't waste time with the smaller glasses, go straight for a pitcher (RMB 140), which will stretch to maybe six or seven glasses for the price. 

There are five other pisco cocktails available, of which we highly recommend the Santa Sandia (RMB 50), a potent and dangerously drinkable blend of pisco, lime, and watermelon juice. 

They're still tweaking the menu here and there, but La Cevicheria will be open from 6pm this Friday, August 7. Better get there early – we have a feeling this pop-up will be hot, hot, hot. 

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Photos: Robynne Tindall