Oodles of Noodles and Capital Culture Await in Xi'an

As a former capital of China for nearly 1,000 years until the Tang Dynasty and the eastern terminus of the Silk Road, you can barely move around Xi'an without tripping over something fascinating and ancient. The compact city center, still ringed by the old city walls, is home to plenty of sights, including the Drum and Bell Towers, the bustling Muslim Quarter, and several diverting museums, and the Terracotta Warriors for which the city is best known are just 20km east.

There are plenty of daily flights to Xi'an but as ever we recommended taking the high-speed train, which gets you there in around five hours. If for example, you were planning a quick weekend trip, you could take Friday afternoon off work and go straight to Beijing West Station on the 2pm G87, which gets you into Xi'an North Station at 6.30pm - just in time to check into your hotel and grab a late dinner. On Sunday, take the 1.20pm G83, which will get you back to Beijing in a swift four hours 35 minutes. Xi'an North Station is connected to the city center by Xi'an Metro Line 2. 

WHAT TO DO

Terracotta warriors: Let's get the big one out of the way first. I confess it has been years since I last visited the terracotta warriors but reliable sources inform me that the best way to get there if you don't want to hire a car and driver or join a tour is to take bus #306 from outside Xi'an train station (the central one, not the high-speed rail station you arrived into), which will get you there in around 60-90 minutes depending on traffic. Entry is RMB 150 once you arrive. This is one of the most popular tourist sites in China so you're never going to be able to beat the crowds completely, but it's worth going as early as possible (the site opens at 8.30am) to get some relative peace and quiet.

Big Wild Goose Pagoda: 4km southeast of the city walls, this huge Tang Dynasty style pagoda was built to commemorate monk Xuan Zang's pilgrimage to India in the 7th Century AD. You're probably more familiar with his story than you realize as it was the inspiration behind the Ming Dynasty novel Journey to the West. It is worth paying the extra RMB 40 fee to climb to the top of the pagoda, as the views are stunning. 

Bike around the city walls: Unlike Beijing, Xi'an's city walls are still standing and visitors can walk a full circuit along the top of the walls. However, since it's a 14km walk, a better option is to rent a bike from the South Gate (the point where most people start their visit from). You'll need to pay around RMB 45 for the bike and a deposit of RMB 200. Note that you'll need to return the bikes to the South Gate by 8pm, which is handy if you want to do a sunset cycle. 

WHERE TO EAT

Thanks to its location at the end of the Silk Road and the influence of its large Muslim population, Xi'an cuisine one of China's most interesting and diverse. Noodles, bread, and dumplings feature heavily, as do lamb and beef. Key dishes to look out for include biangbiang noodles, liangpi (cold noodles with spicy dressing), steamed soup buns stuffed with lamb or beef instead of the usual pork, yangrou paomo (shredded flatbread in lamb broth served with pickled garlic), and, of course, roujiamo.

There are plenty of small restaurants around the Muslim Quarter but Laosunjia, which first opened in 1898, is a reliable choice, serving a solid rendition of yangrou paomo. 

For a fun and comprehensive introduction to the food of Xi'an, take an evening food and beer tour (daily, 6pm) with Lost Plate Food Tours. You'll be taken around in a tuk tuk to four or five different stops, trying some of Xi'an's most famous dishes, including roujiamo, along the way. The tour includes unlimited beer along the way and the final stop is a pint at the only craft beer brewery in Xi'an, where you can carry on the carousing if so inclined. To get a sense of what to expect based on their Beijing tours, read our review. The tour costs RMB 350 per person based on a minimum two people. 

WHERE TO STAY

Aparthotel Citadines Xi'an Central is a centrally located as the come, just a 10-minute walk from the Drum and Bell Towers. Rooms are clean and modern, and the hotel has all the facilities you need, including a fitness center and free wifi. You should be able to pick up a two night stay for around RMB 600 depending on the season. 

Citadines is a solid mid-range choice, but if you're looking to travel on a budget there are plenty of hostels around the city. Travelling With Hotel (Rooms from RMB 158, dorms from RMB 35), located on the city walls near the South Gate is a good choice, as is Xi'an See Tang Hostel (rooms from RMB 180, dorms from RMB 45), in the same area. 

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Photos: Wikimedia, courtesy of Lost Plate