Taipei: A Weekend Away in One of Asia’s Best Gourmet Destinations
A melting pot of Chinese, Japanese, and Western influences, Taipei is a fascinating city with plenty to see and do, although the main attraction for longtime Beijing residents may be the city’s slower pace of life. At just over three hours away via direct flight (via Hainan, Air China, or EVA), Taiwan’s capital makes the perfect destination for a weekend getaway. Once you arrive, the Taoyuan MRT, just opened this year, takes you from the airport to downtown (Taipei Main Station) in just over 45 minutes (TWD 160). Be sure you get the express train rather than the commuter train.
What to See and Eat
We could list a few of Taipei’s main sights – the National Palace Museum, skyline-dominating Taipei 101 – but for many, the city’s main draw is the food, and you can certainly plan your trip entirely around meals at Taipei’s brilliant selection of restaurants.
Fuel up for a day of sightseeing with a hearty traditional Taiwanese breakfast of youtiao, rice rolls, and salty soy milk. Fu Hang Soy Milk in Zhongzheng District draws huge crowds if people-watching intrigues, or you can find branches of reliable Yong He Soy Milk King around the city.
The original branch of Din Tai Fung will be high on the list for many visitors to Taipei, although your enthusiasm for dumplings may be dampened by the inevitable one to two-hour wait. For an alternative, head just down the street to Kao Chi, a venerable Taipei brand whose xiaolongbao are just as good.
Kao Chi is on Yongkang Street, a popular food street where you can sample a number of Taiwanese specialties, including mango shaved ice at Smoothie House and dan tsai noodles at Du Hsiao Yueh. Just off the main drag is Yong Kang Beef Noodles, renowned for their intensely fragrant red-braised beef noodle soup. You will be asked how spicy you want your soup, and we recommend even the most devout chili heads exercise restraint in order to let the flavor of the broth shine through.
For something a little more upscale, book a table at the uber-cool Mume, where the team of three young chefs creates intriguing dishes that fuse Taiwanese ingredients with new Nordic principles. Don’t miss the bruléed chicken liver parfait scented with Shaoxing wine. After eating, head to W Taipei’s slick Yen Bar (just a few subway stops away) for Asian-inspired cocktails and panoramic views of the city.
Where to Stay
If you’re only visiting Taipei for a few days, it pays to stay somewhere central with good transport connections. Dongmen Station – at the intersection of the Tamsui-Xinyi and Zhonghe-Xinlu MRT lines – is close to Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall and the aforementioned Yongkang Street, and is just a few stops away from Taipei Main Station. Hotel 73, which is just a few hundred meters from the station, offers clean, good-value rooms.
Further Afield
If you have more than a couple of days to spend in Taipei, consider taking a day trip to the quaint hillside town of Jiufen, around an hour away from central Taipei by train or bus. The center of the town is a little touristy but does offer beautiful views out over the Pacific Ocean.
A 10-minute taxi ride from Jiufen lies Houtong Cat Village, a former mining town that has become famous for its large cat population. Whether or not you appreciate our feline friends, Houtong is a good base for hikes into the surrounding hills, and a fine place to start burning off what you just ate.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons, Robynne Tindall