Street Eats: Durian Mille Crêpe Cake, Durian Cheesecake … Durian Everything at Musang King

Large, sweet, and often abhorred for its repugnant smell, durian is the the great divider of the fruit world. Alongside the matcha trend sweeping through the world of cafés and sweet treats, we found that durian has been showing up in more and more recipes as well. For the newbies in Asia, let me explain: Durian, the large spiky fruit that normally grows in Southeast Asia, mostly in Thailand and Malaysia, is known for its mild, sweet flesh and its domineering smell that has gotten it banned from some Southeast Asian locales' public transportation.

For the curious, the brave, and the ol-factorily-challenged, Musang King – on the second floor of Ginza Mall at Dongzhimen – can be the perfect spot to try the smelly desserts. When we walked into the small shop, there were a dozen desserts on the menu (RMB 22-34), including a durian mille crêpe cake (RMB 34), durian swiss roll (RMB 30), durian cheesecake (RMB 34), durian chocolate pie, durian pudding, durian puffs, durian ice cream (RMB 60), and even a durian wellington (RMB 34).

As shameless durian lover, we opted for the popular durian mille crêpe cake (RMB 34), and found our seat among the little café's six tables next to decorative fake durians. The cake was quite stunning in appearance, with abundant durian meat stuffed between eleven layers of crêpe, topped with a thick layer of cream, and tossed with almond slices. The taste proved the cake's beauty was more than skin deep, with touches of butterscotch, vanilla, pineapple, and nuts. The frozen cake's durian blend was sweet and creamy, making it seem like durian-flavored ice cream with the roasted almond topping providing a rich, nutty flavor and texture.

The durian cheesecakes (RMB 34 for two, below) brought out little smorgasbord to another level, with the lovely toasted brown surface, the strong, real cream cheese flavor covering the durian flavor, and the smooth texture. This one doesn’t have a strong durian flavor, so it might be great for those just dipping their toes in the stinky waters.

Durian addicts, you might want to try the durian meat (RMB 38-298, depending on how much you want), or the durian cigar (RMB 34 for the set). For the more open-minded, the durian milk tea (RMB 28), durian smoothie (RMB 38), or durian coffee (RMB 28) will be welcome additions to the list of ways you've consumed the reviled fruit. If, upon arrival, you are reluctant to try any of their durian-related products, you can also get a “normal” fruit drinks (RMB 19-28) here.

Some of you might think we're insane. But I posit that, if you love bleu cheese, or Vegemite, or any other funky stuff (no offense, I love all the aforementioned stuff), you forfeit the right to stand on a high horse and judge durian lovers. Never underestimate people's will to try new things – there were about three tables seated by 11am on a Sunday morning. Lovely durians, we will come back for more.

Musang King
Daily 10am-9pm. 2/F, Ginza Mall, 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District (8454 9866)
猫山王榴莲甜品蛋糕: 东城区东直门外大街48号东直门银座mall2层

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Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
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Photos: Tracy Wang