'Meh' Pasta, But Lusciously Hearty Mains Stand Out On Mai Fresh's Winter Menu
When winter gusts hit and the mercury dips, what's a hutong restaurateur to do? Especially one who earlier this year opened his venue as a breezy brunch spot in an airy courtyard? Well, if you're Jeff Ji, you batten down the hatches and serve up hearty fare in a less light and bright, but far more softly lit and romantic ambiance.
Yes, the Mai Fresh owner (who made his claim as a cocktail heavyweight at popular spots like JW Tailor, Da Vinci, Parlor, and the Mai Bar that neighbors his restaurant on Beiluogu Xiang) is in it for the long haul. Despite a winter made all the more raw by closures that have obliterated most of his competitors, thus making the hutongs far less of an overall draw than just a few months prior, he's standing firm with Mai Fresh as one of the few (if any) suitable semi-upscale restaurants left in those alleyways, with hoity-toity, hefty mains to boot.
The standout: a 250g filet mignon for RMB 138. After ordering up that hearty slab of beef, we were pleased to find each bite tenderly juicy, and the roast potatoes on the side were firm and thoroughly crisp on the edges, both which quickly eased our winter blues with haste. Obviously we're not talking about a cut of the red stuff on par with anything from Morton's, or even upper mid-range Chaoyang joints like Bistro 108, and its cherry tomatoes on the side certainly should have been roasted instead of left raw (a glaring oversight that we overlooked while tucking into the superior meat and potatoes). Still, the rustic presentation, on-point quality of the meat and the choice of blue cheese, mushroom, or red wine sauce all made this one a winner for anyone looking to take their significant other for an elegant night out in the alleyways.
The pan-seared salmon (RMB 128) we ordered with a side of quinoa made for a lighter, albeit less memorable alternative to the bulky beef filet. This fish option was all well and good but wouldn't have stayed lodged in our memory if it hadn't come with a side of Hollandaise that actually came close to the creamy sumptuous stuff we grew up with back in the West – a rarity compared to the eggy gloop served as an imitation at most Beijing joints. Other mains on offer include lemon and thyme lamb cutlets (RMB 128), roasted chicken with mixed herbs (RMB 98 for half or RMB 188 for a whole bird), and honey-glazed organic pork ribs for RMB 138.
If it hadn't been for our beef fiending, which made the filet mignon an obvious choice (along with a lighter salmon option to balance things out), we would have spent considerable time pondering which of those other tempting mains to undertake. And oh, if only the pasta we ordered as an appetizer was on par with those keynote dishes, then we really would have been raving. Sadly, the shrimp and pesto risotto disappointed thanks to its bland flavor, mushy "meh" texture and lack of overall pizazz that made our mains stand out as rustic, flavorful wins. Maybe the salmon and caviar pasta (RMB 78), the pesto chicken pasta (RMB 78), or the ham and mushroom with black truffle risotto (RMB 88) would've more adequately hit the spot. After all, it's chilly outside and why tip-toe around the proceedings of a winter feast with a side of shrimp pasta this far from summer? The next time we're back, we hope one of those weightier pastas will better impress.
We were also let down when, after asking the waiter if Jeff had readied any wintery cocktails, he instead recommended a spritzier gin-laden alternative. It was a delightful palate-tingler, to be sure, but far better suited for summer, and not mulled wine-lined, or Brandy-engulfed, or whiskey-drenched like we had hoped as a way to whisk away the winter chills (a few of such warmer options were on the drink menu and we should've ordered them up, yet the waiter's recommendation seemed worth a try, deflating as that turned out to be). It speaks to the high standard that Jeff sets with his drinks that we could enjoy the cocktail that much, yet still expect to have a well-trained waiter recommend a host of new, more elaborate, seasonally fit hearty winter drinks on par with the menus at his bars. Ultimately, that warranted a visit to Mai Bar next door, while also prompting us to plan a second visit later this winter when the weather leaves us hankering filet mignon all the more, though we hope this promising young bistro's flaws are ironed out and on the same level as those top-notch mains the next time we're back.
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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
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Photos: Kyle Mullin
