Confectioneries and More at 200-Year-Old Cafeteria Cova’s New Shop in Parkview Green
It's been two years since we visited Cova in the Financial Street Shopping Mall, the first branch in China. When former-soldier Antonio Cova opened his original shop in Teatro alla Scala near Milan in 1817, he might not have predicted that his handmade cakes and confectioneries would become quite so popular overseas. Now, however, thanks to LVMH group that acquired Cova in 2013, the luxury pastry shop has not one, not two, but three outlets in Beijing.
Occupying one of the best locations on the first floor of Parkview Green, Cova maintains its tradition of serving confectionaries alongside a heavily-influenced Italian-style décor – champagne-colored walls with antique photos and posters shipped directly from Milan, bulky tables with mild white tablecloths, warm lights, and comfortable sofas with cushions in Cova blue.
Arriving after lunch, we dived directly into the afternoon delights, for which there are two options: the chocolate (RMB 178 for one, or RMB 318 for two) or champagne afternoon tea sets (RMB 268 for one, or RMB 398 for two). We chose the latter, featuring a white bread finger sandwich with tuna mousse; mini canapé with smoked salmon rose and soft goat's cheese; toast with melted mozzarella, tomato, and anchovy; coppa mini cup with wild berries, fresh cream; baby tiramisu; sacher chocolate morceaux; mini cream pastries, and two glasses of champagne – which proved plenty for even three people.
We especially liked the pistachio tart, and baby tiramisu – the former has nutty and zesty flavors, and the latter was sweet and well-balanced with a strong taste of espresso coffee. Management explained to us that the pastries are not as sweet as their Italian counterparts since Cova has cut the sugar content in half in order to suit local tastes.
We also had a taste of the mango cream dome (RMB 85 a slice), said to be singer and actor Leslie Cheung’s favorite dessert, and became a symbol for his fans in memory of Cheung after he committed suicide in 2003. The cake was smooth, and not heavy in flavor but light and airy, with fresh mango slices in between each layer.
Our favorite of the bunch was the oatmeal cake (RMB 78), which we were told had been created specifically for Taiwanese singer Jolin Tsai, who craved dessert but wanted something healthy so as not to sabotage his strict workout plan. Covered with oatmeal, the cake is moist, not too sweet, and has a light helping of cream between the layers. A dash of zesty mango sauce and a strawberry tipped this oatmeal cake in delicious territory.
Unfortunately, our bellies were too full to try Cova's specialty Covaccino; an Americano combined with chocolate, brown sugar, whipped cream, and ground pistachios. The menu also includes more-expensive-than-your-average coffee (RMB 50-85), tea (RMB 70 per person), and chocolate drinks (RMB 60).
Alongside the afternoon tea, there are also business lunches (RMB 198 + 10 percent per person), with a choice of appetizer, main, and dessert; there are also juices and various salads (RMB 50) for those thinking of their health.
Cova has its own charming ambiance, and the service is simply impeccable, the smartly-dressed staff giving the impression that you're in a high-end hotel. Confectioneries have a magical ability, no matter your mood, to bring a big grin to your face – and with Cova in town, we don't have to travel all the way to Italy to indulge our sweet tooth in style.
Cova
Daily 10am-10pm. L1-22, 1/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (5690 7330)
朝阳区东大桥路9号楼一层L1-22单元
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Photos: Tracy Wang
