Reubens, Burgers, and Breakfast Sandwiches: 3 Little Pigs Brings Good Ol' American Grub to the Hutongs
While fans of Andy Horowitz's Andy's Craft Sausages were certainly sad to see his Yashow sandwich stand close last year, that hurdle has lead to an even better venture. The New Jersey-hailing sandwich slinger's 3 Little Pigs restaurant is in full swing at Xiezuo Hutong, near Zhangzizhong Lu, and it's the best Western dining destination to open this year in a neighborhood now in dire need of such fare.
Formerly occupied by upscale bistro Albion, the space that Horowitz has taken over is rife with old Beijing charm. It features an arching hutong roof with visible beams, along with nookish seating around the counter, and a few tables near the door. There isn't a copious amount of seating, to say the least, but it feels intimate and every seat boasts a prime view of the open kitchen, where Horowitz and his staff sizzle up their protein-loaded grub.
That cozy, no-frills setting is well suited for the unfussy but wholly satisfying eats. Our favorite is the RMB 65 Reuben (pictured at top), replete with tender, flaky morsels of salty pink corned beef on rye, and smothered with savory Russian dressing, house sauerkraut, and melted Swiss cheese. It's wholesome and authentic enough to transport your taste buds straight to the New Jersey delis that Andy frequented back in the day and which fuel his inspiration. The crispy tater tots on the side make for a refreshing alternative to thick-cut fries that seem to be so trendy at other Western-style spots around town.
Other deli-style options include the RMB 45 sausage sandwich or a
sausage (RMB 60) or meatball hoagie (RMB 65, both loaded with marinara sauce and melted mozzarella on a French roll), as well as the RMB 55 Philly cheesesteak. 3 Little Pigs' selection of four burgers (RMB 60-85) is also nothing to scoff at, thanks to their firm and juicy patties.But we were all the more impressed by the half dozen hangover-crushing breakfast sandwiches. The aptly titled "double sausage, double egg, double cheese, and double bacon" sandwich (RMB 60) has enough mouthwatering protein, hulking carbs, and grease to admonish any booze and regrets still lingering come the morning after.
If you want to keep the party going, there's also a solid beer selection on hand, from GLB's Allied Series and bottled Slow Boat Monkey's Fist to Firestone and Boulevard IPAs. A quirkier draw is the restaurant's mid-week meat raffle, for which Horowitz embraces his inner Pat Sajack and spins a prize wheel every Wednesday night from 5pm onward. Every RMB 100 you spend gets you a spin at the wheel and ensures you leave with either a bottle of Andy's hot sauce, sausages, burger patties, beef jerky, and other hearty handcrafted prizes. It's a solid bit of fun to help you celebrate the end of hump day, and that weekly event – not to mention the down-home menu and woodgrain rife decor – is a much-needed addition for Beijing's hutong set, especially considering the dearth of Western grub after last year's incessant chai-ing.
3 Little Pigs
44 Xiezuo Hutong, Dongcheng District (151 0168 5397)
东城区协作胡同44号
More stories by this author here.
Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle
Instagram: mullin.kyle
Photos courtesy of 3 Little Pigs