A Food Tour of Cheniandian Hutong Before it Gets Bricked; Chez Gerard Goes to BLGX
Call us writers with a hutong complex, but when we heard rumors that beloved Cheniandian Hutong was soon to meet the fate of many similar Beijing alleys, it took us no time to run to the lively alleyway. For the uninitiated, Cheniandian Hutong (车辇店胡同) runs east to west between Beiluogu Xiang and Andingmen Neidajie, directly across the more picturesque Guozijian, and was designated as an official area for imperial carts to park during the Ming and Qing dynasties.
Cheniandian Hutong is filled with small eateries, delis, and shops. Speaking to local residents, rumor had it that the Great Brickening would hit them at the end of April but upon our visit, it appeared that only roadworks had affected the street thusfar. Even so, the inconvenience had forced some of the businesses to close temporarily, if not forever.
Among those were the popular Lanzhou noodle restaurant Bun and Noodle (who we hear are shipping off to Shuangjing's Hopson One Mall), Right Here Hot Pot (就这儿), and Caishen Beer Bar, which might have been dead for a while and we just didn't notice. Someone somewhere will certainly be missing their RMB 50 all-you-can-drink deal.
Despite what may come, the residents of this neighborhood have long been blessed with a formidable variety of restaurants. Fans of Beijing favorite Mr. Shi’s Dumplings on the east side will be happy to hear that they should not be affected by the bricking. No news on whether the tiny family-owned dumpling joint directly across will have the same good fortune.
Also opposite Mr. Shi’s Dumplings, Zhengda Kaolengmian (郑大烤冷面), literally "grilled cold noodles," was quite busy with patrons looking to fill up on a bowl of solid and bouncy kaolengmian, griddled with a scrambled egg and a sprinkle of scallions, raw onion, cilantro, chili, cumin, and sesame. For a measly RMB 9 altogether, we highly recommend that you add duck breast. What could make for better late-night munchies?
Heading west down the hutong, another favorite is Spring Trees Restaurant. Aside from its delicious plethora of Sichuan food, it also has two sizable trees growing in the courtyard and through the roof, from which the restaurant gets its name. The pig's feet (RMB 55) here are particularly good and come with a sweet crimson glaze and a melt-in-your-mouth texture that is springy, not soggy. Go all-out with a plate of roasted rabbit legs (RMB 48 for five pieces) or keep it low-key with a hearty bowl of noodles for just RMB 9. The no-fuss attitude of the staff coupled with the serene setting and jazz soundtrack makes it clear why Spring Trees is one of the most popular restaurants in the area.
Last but not least, we cried a little when we heard Chez Gerard on Jianchang Hutong had closed (and felt the collective sadness from all you Guanshuyuannites) but then were glad to see that they've found new digs at 45 Beiluogu Xiang. The new, swanky, and much larger venue (complete with a yard!) continues to import all of your favorite cheeses, wines, snacks, beers, and bread at the same reasonable prices. There's also fresh produce and the new addition of a bar and café in the back.
For now, the future of Cheniandian remains uncertain but it seems like there's still some time for one last whirlwind food tour of the hutong. After all, it's only once the piles of bricks disappear and the dust settles that we will know what remains.
More stories by this author here.
Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
Twitter: @flyingfigure
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Photos: Tracy Wang
