Modern Belgian Brasserie De Refter Makes Promising Reopening at Courtyard 4 With Bao and Beer
Despite Courtyard 4 being one of our go-to Sanlitun destinations for drinking and dining, De Refter has rarely been our first port of call. Having first opened as a pretty simple Belgian beer-focused bar, the concept has now been revamped by its "Three Musketeers," three French expats: Thomas Salou, Edouard Simon, and former Slow Boat head chef Clement Rol. The brasserie still includes the original's strong beer selection as well as a European-centric food menu and a range of gua bao, steamed bun and meat combos popular in Fujian and Taiwan.
But before we get to the food, we should mention that one of De Refter's best new additions is its large alfresco area. Meanwhile, the large open windows, carefully designed flourishes and warm lighting are all likely to remind you of posh cafés found in Hong Kong. Behind the bar, there are 10 beers on tap as well as over a dozen bottled Belgian beers, including entries from Chimay, Lindemans, Delirium, Rochefort, Bush, and additional beers from Hitachino and Baladin. The second floor is more open, making it suitable for private parties and groups.
For the menu, Slow Boat alumn Clement Rol says that he drew on his Belgian heritage and rich travel experience. The first stop on the tasting menu took us to Italy with a cherry tomato burrata (RMB 88), consisting of a bed of cherry tomato tartar seasoned with basil, garlic, and a slow burn from the Sichuan pepper dressing, upon which sits the hulking glob of creamy burrata, ready to ooze out. Buttery and crunchy deep-fried bao accompany the dish and provide some heft to mop up the plate; an indulgent combination that is enough to see you throw your calorie calculator away. Other highlights included the Belgium fries, Brussel sprouts, crispy corn tempura, and pickled daikon salad.
The yakitori skewers (RMB 38) come packed with succulent chunks of chicken sprinkled with chopped mint and cilantro. A creamy and tangy sauce made with vinegar, curry, soy sauce, and the kitchen's "secret ingredient" sits on the side for dipping and balances well with the deep umami notes of the barbecued chicken.
However, its the gua bao that stand out here. Inspired by the modern Chinese diner Little Bao in Hong Kong, Rol has put his own creative spin on these puffy, meaty treats at De Refter. We were particularly impressed by the BB "Beef Brisket" Bao (RMB 48). It comes served in a traditional Chinese bamboo tray and with a mantou bun that's cushier than pillows as well as a filling of slow-cooked beef brisket readied to juicy perfection. Fried garlic, buttery bok-choy, caramelized onions, Parmesan cheese, and Sichuan pepper mayonnaise put it over the top and crown it a supreme drinking snack.
The other gua bao options include: Drunken Beijing Duck Bao, the BB Bao, Golden Chicken Bao, Touched by Truffle Bao (vegetarian), Fish & Bao, and we've been told there'll be additional seasonal bao on the menu designed by guest chefs, effectively turning the time-honored steamed Chinese bun into a run of fusion burgers.
De Refter starts their brunch menu this weekend, opening at 11am, and lunch sets will follow in the near future. We're glad to see that this small brasserie has hit the ground running following its reopening. Indeed, its revamped digs and creative menu mean that we're unlikely to overlook De Refter again anytime soon.
De Refter
Mon-Fri 5pm-12am, Sat-Sun 11am-1am. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (across from Q Mex), Chaoyang District (8523 5909)
朝阳区工体北路4号院
More stories by this author here.
Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
Twitter: @flyingfigure
Instagram: @flyingfigure
Photos: Tracy Wang
