Agua's New Business Lunch Lets You Impress Guests Without Breaking the Bank

Amid the hectic comings and goings of the Beijing restaurant scene these days, Nali Patio's Agua is a rare oasis of steady success and sturdy dependability. The upscale, decade-old Spanish eatery has been quietly doing good business, drawing diners hankering for Iberian delicacies or looking to celebrate a special occasion, even as flashier competitors fill up our social media feeds with promotions.

Aside from being an old favorite for upscale dining, the restaurant also appeals to a more casual crowd with a business set lunch, priced at RMB 118 per patron, which is reasonable for what you get. The recently launched summer set features a choice of three appetizers (bacon and spinach quiche with tossed salad, onion soup with a side of emmental toast, or stewed white beans with homemade chorizo); one of a trio of mains (calamari with tomato sofrito and steamed rice, confit salmon fillet with hot roasted endive salad, or roasted pork tenderloin with broccoli and mustard sauce); along with your pick from three dessert options (ice cream, classic puff pastry apple pie or lemon custard, and meringue tart).

With chorizo becoming all the rage at Spanish and Mexican restaurants of all stripes in Beijing, we were eager to try Agua’s take. Immersed in a small sea of cushy beans and savory sauce which was hearty, nourishing and understated, the plush chunks of meat really popped. We enjoyed it so much, we only wish there was double the amount of chorizo, because the two pieces went down too quickly. Though falling short of groundbreaking, It was a sturdily satisfying appetizer.

The salmon main, meanwhile, was more memorable, thanks to the top-notch quality of the pink meat. It was firmer and less flakey than many salmon entrees we’ve tried in Beijing. That said, it was still very juicy, and a simple splash of olive oil, rather than the more overwhelming sauces in which other restaurants douse the fish, made for a refreshingly unfussy and wholesome dish. Even though it wasn't much to look at, it won out in for its subtle flavors.

To top it all that off, the lemon ice cream, despite the name, was denser and more reminiscent of a sorbet, and while it was grin-inspiringly sweet and certainly cleansed the palate at first, it proved a bit too rich for us to finish on our own. (Upon sharing it, we found the other party's orders of wholesome puff pastry apple pie and zesty lemon custard both proved to be superior desserts).

This business lunch provides a solid bang for your buck option at one of Beijing's pricier eateries. It's a strong complement to other, better-known aspects of Agua's menu, such as the 21-dish summer evening menu, featuring a number of Spanish and Japanese fusion items, all concocted by executive chef Alberto Becerri, who took on the role this time last year.

Now a decade old and first headed by Jordi Valles, Agua has maintained the finesse that caused it to make a major splash back when it opened, with many foodies calling its take on Spanish fare modern and inventive. Its owners, Aqua Restaurant Group, now also runs the top-shelf Fez bar in the same complex, along with other ventures in Hong Kong and London.

All that amounts to a solid spot to impress when it comes to business lunch in the capital. The ambiance also fits the bill in that regard, with dark wood grain tiles, white brick walls giving a semi-casual tinge to balance out the white linen tables, and bulbous stained glass light fixtures and wine racks. Given those touches of class, there’s little wonder why this seasoned vet has so much staying power.

Agua's summer business lunch set menu is priced at RMB 118, is available from midday to 2pm on weekdays, and runs until Oct 5.

Photos: Kyle Mullin, courtesy of Agua