Don't Let the Slick Look Fool You: Fu Man Yuan Is Still as Hearty as Ever

There’s no shortage of international eateries popping up in Xinyuanli's Shang building- whether it's the new Boxing Cat branch, or the forthcoming Pachakutiq Peruvian restaurant, not to mention well-established spots like Q Mex and Bottega.

So it’s refreshing to see an equally slick Chinese restaurant in the bustling courtyard that also houses the Shang complex. Indeed the gleaming sign reading 福满园 (Fu Man Yuan) beckons from the moment you hop out of your Didi. The interior is equally inviting, its bright lighting, minimalist black table tops and wooden-legged stools, walls lined with wood grain, and slate grey floors all making for a minimalistic but on-point ambiance that rivals the polished presentation of its neighbors. 

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Like the decor, the menu endeavors to be appealing to both foreign and well-to-do Chinese patrons. It mostly consists of hearty northern dishes that'll remind you of your favorite humble Dongbei canting. This won’t come as a surprise to Chinese foodies who have enjoyed Fu Man Yuan's wares since it opened in 1994, but should please newcomers who are unfamiliar with the brand's other branches around town but hankering for sturdy northern fare.

It was Chinese customers looking to quell homesickness as well as hunger pains who seemed to be the bulk of the clientele, when we stopped by on what should’ve been a sleepy Sunday night, but was in fact bustling. After taking a peek at what the neighbors were feasting on, we ordered an RMB 42 plate of spare ribs with emerald green lentils. Other wholesome, straightforward, but reasonably priced items include a RMB 42 eggplant dish, or RMB 59 spareribs with brown sauce. A few more leftfield options jumped out at us as we perused the menu, like an RMB 45 plate of braised tofu with caviar, of all things, and RMB 70 serving of kung pao shrimp.

The tofu dish boasted decadently rich sauce, and cubes of curd that struck the right balance between firm and squishy. The caviar sprinklings gave it savory notes that put it over the top (we're not talking Michelin star grade or anything here, but it was still pretty succulent), while the 25cm diameter plate meant it was portioned enough to satisfy two to four patrons, making it well worth the price point. 

The beef ribs and lentils were less remarkable but still did the trick, the sauce-drenched plump greens as tasty as they were wholesome. The beef ribs proved overly bony and gristly, though the meat we managed to pick from this dish was juicy, tender, and generally satisfying.

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It amounted to a solid night of northern Chinese fare, especially for a chain. And while your favorite neighborhood hole in the wall probably has more succulent, memorably flavorsome takes on northern cuisine, along with more personality to spare, such Mom and Pop spots are quickly being devoured by Beijing’s ruthless brick and mortar citywide refurbishment. Let’s just hope more sturdy chains like Fú Mǎn Yuán fill the void, instead of the overpriced, flavorless big brands that are becoming all to common.  

Fu Man Yuan
Daily 11am-10pm. 16 Xinyuanli (across from Q Mex Taqueria and Bottega), Chaoyang District
福满园：朝阳区新源里16号

Photos: Kyle Mullin