Street Eats: Traditional Beijing Muslim Sweets at Laohuihui, Zuojiazhuang

Beijing's street food scene has no shortage of international options, be it cream puffs, cheesy toast, fried chicken, or shawarma. And while it's easy for many Chinese patrons to be lured by those exotic items, it doesn't mean homegrown street snacks aren't holding their own. Case in point: the Beijing Muslim snacks on offer at Zuojiazhuang Laohuihui Xiaochidian, which are trending among many a local foodie as of late.

So how, pray tell, do we know these Chinese Muslim-style goodies are all the rage in Beijing? Look no further than the 20-minute line slinking out from the front door and down the street. While that enthusiasm is reminiscent of the fads for milk tea, “dirty buns” and other recent trendy foods, the queue here is far more diverse – young and old, stylish and unassuming, selfie-posing and just plain old hungry. Let's just say this lineup isn't limited to social media influencers (which is refreshing, to say the least).

Chalk that up to the snacks on offer, which are traditional and authentic. They will satisfy both your sweet tooth and your craving for something savory, with treats such as àiwōwo (艾窝窝), mung pea cake (wāndòu huáng, 豌豆黄), táng ěrduo (糖耳朵), baozi, deep-fried meatballs, and several braised meat options.

We started off with the anti "dirty bun", a less trendy, far more timeless "rolling donkey" (驴打滚 lǘ dǎgǔn, RMB 15/500g). It consists of a large roll, made of glutinous rice with red bean filling, and dusted with soybean flour. This treat was said to resemble a donkey rolling in the dirt, but don't worry, it's far more appetizing than its name. The filling was not overly sweet, but be warned: the exterior was sticky enough to pull your dental caps out.

I'd also recommend the táng huā juǎn (糖花卷, RMB 2). Its name literally means "sugar steamed flower bun" but it's really a sweet take on the usually savory steamed scallion bun. In appearance, this traditional sweet reminds me a little of a “dirty bun” with its sweet sesame and brown sugar filling, and dusting of sweet sesame paste. It boasts a moist texture and strong flavors. And like the dirty bun, it's a calorie bomb.   

Their àiwōwo (艾窝窝, RMB 2), meanwhile, is probably the best I’ve had in Beijing. This imperial candy was a favorite of the Empress Cixi. Laohuihui's features red bean paste that bites back (because they don’t grind the paste too smoothly), and a sugar filling balanced by the sticky wrapping of glutinous rice. Indeed, despite some flaws, this is a sizeable ball that will satisfy anyone's sugar cravings.  

To queue like the locals, you have to at least pretend to be patient, especially when you see a dama at the front sweeping up everything you wanted to buy. When it’s your turn, step up, and address them with your best Mandarin at your loudest volume. They'll then weigh, pack and hand your order to you promptly.

In an age of photoshopped lunch posts, hipster-clogged queues, and eccentric recipes designed to make headlines, this down-to-earth, traditional snack option was a welcome change. And, even though the old-timers who run and frequent these kinds of shops may have never expected to be compared to the flashily marketed Hey Teas of the world, their old-school approach may very well become all the rage for those of us who've grown weary of glossier, more gimmicky spots.

Laohuihui Xiaochidian
Daily 5.30am-10am, 11am-10pm. 4 Zuojiazhuang Zhongjie, Chaoyang District
老回回小吃店：朝阳区左家庄中街4号
 

READ: Lady M Brings its Signature Mille-Crêpes Cakes from New York to Chaoyang Joy City
 

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Photos: Tracy Wang