F Bistronome‘s New Chef Takes a Saucy Approach to French Favorites

Just over a year ago F Bistronome opened its doors at China World Mall and was an instant hit thanks to its accessible, affordable French fare and wondrous picture window view of the CBD. In the ensuing months, Beijing’s mile-a-minute F&B scene has seen trends come and go, other neighborhoods dominate headlines, and pics from a slew of newer eateries fill up our Instagram feeds. And yet a year later, F Bistronome has not only weathered all that change but has built up a devoted clientele and sturdy reputation that the owners are now building upon with a new chef, who is taking a creative approach to the menu.

We were recently invited to come and try newly hired executive sous chef Samuel Wu’s spin on F Bistronome's casual French fare and left with the impression that this restaurant will have plenty of staying power in Beijing’s notoriously volatile dining scene. Wu hails from Taiwan but studied in Paris, and has devised a unique method that adheres to France’s famously rigid cooking techniques while also subtly introducing Asian flourishes. It’s a very fine line to walk but Wu pulls it off by not trying to reinvent the esteemed French culinary wheel but instead zeroing in on the sauces to find new niches for innovation.

Read: Our first glance of F Bistronome when it opened in 2017

That means that the dishes have textures that would satisfy the strictest of French culinary purists, while also freshening up that storied tradition by including vibrant ingredients like Chinese mango in the sauce to give fare like the foie gras some exotic and zesty notes that give it a new spin.

Same goes for the RMB 115 salade de roquette and gambas grilles, an arugula salad with grilled shrimps, avocado with a Japanese sauce that gives the salad some subtle Asian spice that is applied with enough finesse to not overwhelm the crunchy, fresh, more traditionally European ingredients.

Another must try: the RMB 165 filet de fleatan poele (a melt-in-your-mouth tender Icelandic halibut filet with capers, pictured in the lead image above and highly touted as a new item on the menu). The dish comes encased in a bag that protects it from becoming to dry or hard during the steaming process, maintaining its moist suppleness while also added a bit of rustic chic to the presentation.

All that being said, Wu also pulls off F Bistronome's established items with aplomb, wisely keeping big hits like the RMB 285 cote de veau, aka slow cooked smoked veal, on the menu. It takes three days prep, and is tender and juicy enough to make you instantly grin with delight, its side of creamy mashed potatoes certainly not hurting matters. 

Aside from that meaty favorite, diners will also want to turn to the dessert menu for the famed pillowy soufflé (RMB 80, marinated in orange and served with a side of vanilla ice cream) for testaments of why the restaurant was a smash upon opening and has maintained that momentum. Ordering a mix of those established items as well saucy newbies will make for a meal that showcases F Bistronome's strengths as both an authentic taste of France that isn’t afraid to tweak and experiment with Far East innovations.

Immerse yourself in our coverage of China World Mall's numerous offerings here.

Photos: Courtesy of F Bistronome