Say Cheese! We Test Spacious Las Coffee's Westernized Dairy Brews near U-Town Mall
Although we’ve all heard of cheese tea – the oh-so-ubiquitous dairy-layer-capped bevies prompting huge lineups of Chinese patrons – it’s surprising to see that trend become popular enough to make it’s way to Beijing’s more westernized cafés. Exhibit A: Las Coffee, the first shop we’ve ever come across to serve this East-meets-West twist on the drink that’s all the rage among thirsty Chinese customers.
Located, oddly enough, on a sleepy side street between Sanlitun and U-Town mall, the “sea salt cheese drink” section of the recently opened café’s menu is certainly unique. Among the quirky options on offer – plain Americano coffee, black tea, matcha, and mocha – we picked the latter, thinking its chocolatey quality might contrast well with the salty, cheesy upper layer (or at least fail spectacularly enough to warrant a snarky, entertaining write-up). Surprisingly enough, Las Coffee’s mocha coffee rendition wasn’t half bad, the combination amounting to a foamier and more savory topping than on the average latte or creamer topped mocha.
Was it too rich to be anything more than an occasional indulgence? You betcha. But Las Coffee deserves kudos for creating such a unique drink and, what’s more, for pulling it off. Patrons put off by the quirky cheese salt coffees are likely to instead enjoy Las’ more standard offerings of Americanos, cappuccinos, and lattes (RMB 25-35), or their fairly standard quartet of imports from Kenya, Yirgacheffe Ethiopia, Guatemala, and Colombia (RMB 48 each).
The café’s other major attribute is its creative decor. Exposed steel beams, scuffed concrete walls, and door frames that look even more jagged and unfinished are all contrasted by polished copper side tables alongside the booth on the far wall, not to mention the wood grain center island table. That ambiance reminded me of one of the first cafés I’d ever reviewed for the Beijinger, the minimalist chic hutong shop Analog, although Las Coffee is about triple the size of that snug, dozen seater spot. Las’ weird addition of red rock climbing style wires, threaded through hooks and pulleys to suspend an array of light bulbs above the center island table, also set it apart.
And while this Las Coffee shop only opened in early October, it’s big sister location has been going strong in 798 Art District since 2007, a practical eternity in Beijing’s volatile F&B scene. The new branch’s smattering of colorful modern paintings and its overall rugged design, echo 798’s defunct factory turned bohemian loft vibe.
Hopefully, such strengths will help Las Coffee withstand the withering factors working against it, mainly the glut of new specialty cafés popping up every which way across town, and the somewhat out-of-the-way location they chose to open shop. However, that slightly off the beaten path address might serve it well, because U-Town lacks such independent brands among its slew of chains.
Perk up with the Beijinger's complete coverage of the capital's café scene here.
Las Coffee
Daily 10.30am-10.30pm. 68 Jishikou East Road (off Chaowai North Street), Chaoyang District
朝阳区吉市口东路新中街68号
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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
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Photos: Kyle Mullin
