New Dongli Brewery Taproom Regrettably Does Little to Enliven Sleepy Chaoyangmen

Having opened two off-the-beaten-path craft beer joints in Xi'erqi and Yizhuang, Dongli Brewery is now catering to another untapped market, this time near U-Town mall.

Chaoyangmen is certainly more central than their other locations, but lacks the innovative F&B fun to be had just a few clicks away in Sanlitun, or a couple of subway stops east in the CBD. This makes Dongli’s newest branch (just north of the U-Town Mall) a welcome addition to the increasingly sleepy Russian district. The addition of even one watering hole in the neighborhood is welcome, especially given the recent closure of QS, which while admittedly lackluster did look to provide something different.

While 16 taps were visible behind the bar when we stopped by Dongli (next door to another exciting newbie: LAS Coffee), only 11 options are listed on the menu for now. Their old Cannon Dark porter (ABV 10 percent, RMB 45 for a 450ml glass, or RMB 90 for a 1L), was full-bodied and bitter with a gently sweet aftertaste; perfect for a chilly winter day. Meanwhile, their Dongli IPA (ABV 6.6, RMB 45 for a 450ml or RMB 90 for 1L) was hoppy but otherwise unmemorable.

This taproom's biggest flaw is its ambiance. It's outfitted with standard restaurant tables and chairs, with nary a barstool in sight. Despite the illustrations of brew tanks on the walls, and a shelf of golden glowing beer bottles in another, this could’ve been any old restaurant in any corner of the world. In fact, it looks like the decorator walked out sometime between clock-in and lunchtime on his first day on the job.

It's certainly a far cry from the industrial vibes at Slow Boat and Jing-A, which all but scream “craft beer.” Even Dongli's Xi'erqi location, with its woodgrain furniture and visible tanks, is a major step up from this branch's atmosphere.

We didn’t try any of the food (eating here doesn't exactly scream warmth) but the menu possesses the usual burgers, meat platters, fries, chips and dip, and a few other items.

All in all, the new Dongli makes for an okay option for pints should you live, work, or shop in Chaoyangmen but it’s far from Beijing’s best craft beer spot. Saying that, considering the dearth of distinctive restaurants – let alone bars – nearby, any variety can't hurt.

Dongli Brewery (Chaoyangmen)
Daily 10am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 8, Julong Garden, 68 Xinzhong Street, Dongcheng District
东城区新中街68号聚龙花园8号楼一层 电话

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Photos: Kyle Mullin