Former Ramo Owner Makes Triumphant Hutong Return With Zha Zha Bistro
Restaurant owner and chef Paca Li's tenacity is one of the great underdog stories of Beijing's recent history. After getting her start slinging poutine at The Box in Gulou around a decade ago, Li went on to open Ramo in Fangjia Hutong, which rapidly became one of Beijing's most beloved brunch spots but which eventually succumbed to the Great Brickening in 2017. Li then took her winning formula to Lido, where she opened her Ramo 2.0, but unfortunately, even that space wasn't safe and bit the dust with next to no warning late last year.
Read: Fate of Fangjia Hangouts Unclear at the Height of the Great Brickening
Recently, however, Li began hankering for a taste of home and decided to satisfy that craving with her new Zha Zha Bistro near Qianmen, which puts a creative spin on the Guizhou dim sum she grew up with. The result is Li's best project to date and in turn, one of Beijing's best openings of 2019 so far.
For Li, it's also a triumphant return to the hutongs, albeit a more refined and laid-back alley than her previous Dongcheng stomping ground. The food and colorful decor will delight fans of Li's style and also draw in new diners courtesy of a superior menu and ambiance.
And while the floral painted walls and gleaming marble balcony and tables are gorgeous, Zha Zha's food is an even greater thing of beauty. The dishes are a mashup of the traditional dim sum of Li’s childhood in southern China and made-for-sharing tapas-like plates with inventive sauces and stuffings, and truly striking presentation.
Be sure to try the RMB 38 Zha Zha Ribs, which in true Guizhou style are both "tender enough to fall off the bone" as well as buried beneath a layer of chili flakes. There’s no need for trepidation, however, because these ribs have a subtly slow burn that never overwhelms. The RMB 48 lamb with mint is also gently spicy, with contrasting textures thanks to its juicy mutton and crispy greens. Other highlights include the wholesome RMB 38 stuffed sausage potato roll (pictured at top), the RMB 42 pork balls in mango sauce, and the hunger-busting RMB 25 meat stuffed sticky rice balls.
It's not all meat though and Li has tailored the menu to have a serious vegan bent. A clear standout from the eight choices here: the pillowy fried tofu balls (RMB 22), which fantastic as they’d be on their own, are elevated by a tart radish garnish and a tangy sauce. Other meatless choices include the RMB 18 steamed eggplant with garlic, RMB 20 dried mushrooms, and the RMB 28 potato mash, making Zha Zha a prime choice not only for fans of creative Chinese fair but also Beijing vegans starved for unique choices.
Zha Zha also caters to barflies with refreshing and flavorful rice wine drinks. Their RMB 38 jasmine rice wine cocktail, for instance, is mixed deftly enough to make you practically oblivious to its high alcohol content. They also have creative peach puree, soymilk, cheese cream, and chili vanilla rice wine cocktails ranging from RMB 38-48. The drink menu is rounded out with beers like RMB 35 Drake’s and RMB 40 Slow Boat Stone Pilsner, and Ash Tree Estate red and white wines (RMB 50 per glass or RMB 198 per bottle).
Li says she named the bistro Zha Zha because it roughly translates as the "the sound of chirping birds."
"When I found this place, it had many big trees out front, and some birds were making happy sounds on the branches," Li says of the sleepy hutong that she settled upon for her post-Ramo comeback. "So I want people to have good food here while chatting away with each other like the birds outside."
Li's return to the hutongs and her eye for lively decor, a traditional-yet-innovative menu, and refreshing drinks, means that it's unlikely that only the birds will be chirping about the opening of Zha Zha this summer.
Zha Zha Bistro
Tue-Sun, 11.30am-10.30pm. 108 Xixinglong Street, Dongcheng District (6702 2347)
东城区西兴隆街108号
READ: Dengshikou Provides a Fresh Port of Call for Slow Boat and a Return to Their Taproom Roots
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Photos courtesy of Zha Zha Bistro
