US Seafood Chain Giant Red Lobster is Already Clawing its Way Into Beijingers’ Hearts

There are casual American fast-food dining chains, and then there’s Red Lobster. Where Olive Garden, Chili's, and the like tried in vain to win over the hearts and minds of corporate-averse millennials, Red Lobster swam upstream, clawed forward, and batted its red tail all the way to success. Their secret? Consistency, generous portions, and freshness at a fair price, as opposed to relying on patronizing marketing for costly, reheated dinners.

That traction is apparent during our recent visit to their newly opened Taikoo Li location, which appeared to be filled with homesick Americans and Chinese who had studied abroad and had had a taste of what the seafood chain could do.

Such fans will surely be pleased to find that our location is serving longtime favorites like the fluffy and piping hot complimentary cheddar bay biscuits, the Red Lobster chopped salad (RMB 90), and above all, the flagship steamed live Maine lobster, which if you didn't get the memo, is basically the sole reason for this chain to exist. True diehards can even grab a net and scoop out their dinner from the lobster tank by the entryway while the staff offer to capture the moment and print it out if you feel so inclined. (If this is your idea of fun, we at least ask that you, in the words of David Foster Wallace, consider the lobster.)

Once you've played with your food, how does the final product stack up? If you're pescatarian-inclined, actually rather well. The lobster meat strikes the right balance between fluffy and firm, and is more satisfying when eaten straight, bypassing (at least for your first foray) the more elaborate variations on offer. Of those latter options, however, we did enjoy the steamed lobster tail with a side of crunchy fried Hawaiian coconut shrimp and the lobster Thermidor, which sees the lobster roasted and doused in a creamy white mushroom sauce (RMB 398 for 450g, RMB 788 for 900g or RMB 1088 for 1.3kg). Additionally, the RMB 108 lobster and shrimp flatbread (essentially a seafood pizza) made for a decent starter, while the Fra Diavolo (lobster cooked in a mildly spicy tomato sauce and served on a bed of linguine pasta) was sufficient but only really obscured the main draw.

And while those mainstays are likely to please regulars that were brought up on the chain in the States, this branch also surprised us with its willingness to innovate. Specifically, Red Lobster Beijing has adapted some dishes to cater to the local crowd, including a special main of stir-fried lobster with chilis and cashew nuts. The Sichuan-style dish won't leave your eyes watering like at your favorite Ghost Street eatery, but it tastes great and also speaks to the brand's above-average creativity.

Unsurprisingly, the lobster and nautical motifs don't stop at the table with neon lobsters looming overhead and oars and ship blueprints variously affixed to the walls throughout. Meanwhile, woodgrain floors, blue cupboards, and bright red pleather chairs complete the sailor vibe. The decor also sets itself apart from most blasé US chains thanks to its wide Taikoo Li windows and a prime view of Sanlitun. 

This all adds up to the kind of aesthetic that can launch a restaurant to the top of Dianping rankings here in Beijing, but actually, Red Lobster has also been making consistent inroads with younger demographics back in the States, having been recently ranked the top dining choice among 18- to 24-year-olds. The key drawcards appear to be the fresh, reasonably priced seafood, fun atmosphere, and ability to accommodate large groups. For now, all signs point to the Beijing branch delivering on these fronts in spades, so we expect to see this restaurant sticking around for the long haul.

Red Lobster
Daily, 11am-11pm. 3/F, Bldg S4, Unit S4-30, Taikoo Li South District, 19 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District (6468 8598)
朝阳区三里屯路19号院三里屯太古里南区S4号楼三层S4-30单元

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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
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Photos: Kyle Mullin, Red Lobster