Covid Claims Another Classic Beijing Eatery: Obentos Says Goodbye

Obentos, a true Beijing original that was one of the first purveyors of Japanese-style bento boxes in Beijing, is calling it quits after lunch service tomorrow, according to its founder Andrew Stevenson.

Obentos first got its start way back in September 2011 in Central Park with a lineup of health-conscious bento boxes, alongside a selection of salads, juices, and sushi.

They were one of the first restaurants in the city to feature full calorie counts and icons indicating whether a dish was vegetarian, vegan, or suitable for those with allergies or intolerances. They were also one of the first to cater to the low-carb crowd by offering alternatives to rice in their boxes. Early favorites included teriyaki chicken, salt-grilled mackerel, firecracker beef, and so-delicious-you'd-never-believe-it-was-healthy steamed chicken with gingery soy dressing.

Food aside, Obentos Central Park's hip minimalist interior design, plentiful outdoor seating, and environmentally-friendly packaging saw them carve a solid niche in Beijing’s dining scene, especially among health-conscious CBD office workers. As more health-focused restaurants opened in the capital, it soon became clear that Obentos was not just a great dining choice, but a trendsetter to boot.

After the Central Park location was well established, Obentos expanded to Wangjing in 2014, although that location only survived until Jan 2015. A location in the newly-renovated Grand Summit in Liangmaqiao followed later that year, which became the brand's flagship when the Central Park location closed in 2016.

Lido-based diners were excited to welcome Obentos to their neighborhood in 2018 but unfortunately, that location closed last December, leaving only the Grand Summit outpost. Then came COVID-19, which battered everyone in the food business.

Obentos reopened in early February, only to close its doors a week later when the virus spread. They reopened in March, but given the punishing second wave which reduced foot traffic to most of Beijing’s malls and shopping centers, the business never really had a chance.

Over the years, the Obentos menu had expanded far beyond their titular bento boxes, especially with the opening of the Grand Summit location. In early 2016, they launched a menu of modern Japanese-inspired small plates packed with ingredients like yuzu, miso, konbu, and red bean. Hearty breakfast bento boxes soon followed, with options like onigiri and omelet and mixed grain porridge designed to keep you satisfied until lunch. 

“We’ve had a great run over the last nine years but the last few years, and especially COVID, have taken its toll on the business," Stevenson told us over WeChat. 

Obentos was a favorite among the Beijinger staffers, with current and former editors praising them for their "healthy options that weren't a big boring salad" and for creating veggie and vegan options that had clearly received the same care and attention as their meat and fish options. Obentos, you will be missed.

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Images: Obentos/The Beijinger archives