Weekend Walk: Zig Zag Through the Dongcheng Hutongs with This Artsy Stroll

Vincent R. Vinci, Contributing Editor | Aug 28, 2022 5:31 pm | Add a comment | 642 reads

Weekend Walk is your guide to getting away in the city using nothing but your own two feet.

Right after the Great Bricking Up, there was a time when it seemed like the capital’s many alleyway neighborhoods might lose all their charm. A few years after the horrific ordeal, however, it looks like that hasn't really been the case.

Saunter down any old hutong – not just the commercialized lanes like Nanluoguxiang and Wudaoying – and you’ll find all sorts of hidden treasures, like bars, restaurants, museums, and even art galleries. Being that I’m a sucker for anything art related, this walk centers heavily on the art side of things, with some other goodies sprinkled in to shake things up.

Plus, I’ve also added in a few options for where you can end your stroll. Think of this as a Choose Your Own Adventure book with a little more art and grown up fun.

A note before we begin: this walk is partly inspired by a recent post from Susu, with their walk focusing on where to grab some of their Vienamese noodz and more along their chosen route. A bit more on that further down.

Start Here: Shijia Hutong Museum

Before one walks through the hutong, one must understand the hutong. There’s no better place to get some hutong knowledge than this little courtyard museum.

The museum is a treasure trove of wisdom, starting from the origins of Chinese city planning – all the way back in the era of Zhou – to the origins of the word "hutong," to the advent of the siheyuan-style living space. The museum was also a home for art troupes for a spell, and that spirit lives on today in the regular art exhibitions that are hosted here.

National Art Museum of China, M Woods Art Museum

Once you’ve taken in some history, head west along Shijia Hutong until you reach Dongsi South Avenue. Walk north until you’ve reached Dongsi West Street and turn left here. Walking west until the street turns into Wusi Street, you’ll eventually find what you’re looking for on your right: the massive halls of the National Art Museum.

Done in a sort of mashup of old and new Chinese styles, it's a sight to behold from the outside.

If you've booked a ticket inside (tickets must generally be booked a day in advance via the 中国美术馆 WeChat, unless the space is closed for exhibition changes) the museum building houses art that tends to lean more towards the conservative – shows focus more on state-sponsored art than anything else. That being said, there is the occasional exhibit of old ink paintings, which is a great relief from all the regular fervor.

After taking in some "red" art, head back onto Wusi Street and go west. Turn right onto Meishuguan East Street. Keep walking to Cuifu Alley, and head east ‘til you’ve found Renmin Shichang West Lane. Walk north until you find M Woods Art Museum.

A contemporary, more edgy counterpart to the National Art Museum, this art space serves as an extension of the gallery of the same name in 798. The current offering is an exhibition on the influence of Renaissance masters on Chinese art in partnership with the British Museum.

C&C Culture Park

Once back on Wusi Street, walk east and turn left at Meishuguan East Street. From here, walk north until you reach Meishuguan Back Street. Turn left and walk to the next stop.

C&C Culture Park features a hidden exhibition space within its factory bowels, as well as some old machinery and all kinds of bridges, stairways and a rooftop – perfect for a few candid shots for the ‘Gram.

Songzhuyuan Temple Complex

From C&C, head west down Liangguochang Hutong and when you reach Beiheyan Avenue, cross the street and turn north. Walk until you’re at Songzhuyuan North Lane and seek out the north gate of the temple complex. Follow the red walls of the temple south and around until you reach a sign with a red X.

Inside this Qing-era temple complex, you’ll find TRB Hutong, an award-winning fine dining restaurant, as well as a fancy place to enjoy Chinese tea. But you're not here to enjoy haute cuisine or tea – you're here for art, and art you'll find.

The complex is also home to a light installation by James Turrell titled Gathered Sky. The works of this master of natural and artificial light are a once-in-a-lifetime treat to view. Follow the complex's official WeChat (Temple东景缘) and go to “Art” and “Gathered Sky” to book a spot. Tickets start at RMB 150.

It should be noted that Gathered Sky opens from “sunset” from Friday to Monday each week, so its best to be sure to make it in time, as this is one of the wildest, most mind bending ways to take in the day’s last light.

Final Stop: Double Back to Longfusi

Once you’ve taken in the sunset by a totally new means, it’s time for dinner. Head north on Beiheyan Avenue and turn right onto Daqudeng Hutong. Keep walking, cross Meishuguan Back Street, and head down Dafosi East Street.

On this little byway, keep walking until the road turns southward and make your way to Qianliang Hutong, which you’ll waltz down until you get to Renmin Shichang West Lane and look for Jing-A’s Longfusi Taproom.

This, in my opinion, is the perfect end to an artsy day, as the walls here are covered in fun murals depicting the city. Enjoy the views with a pint of one of Jing-A's creative brews and sourdough pizzas.

If beer and pizza aren’t your thing, there’s a Susu branch in the same complex. Here you’ll find pho, banh mi sandwiches, and all kinds of Vietnamese comfort foods.