Nanjing: Why You Should Visit China's Southern Capital

Nanjing will forever hold a special place in my heart as it's where I lived when I first came to China over ten years ago, studying there from 2011 to 2012. Since then, I've had a couple of fleeting visits to the city but was delighted to recently get the opportunity to explore the city across four days. 

Firstly, a bit of history. Located along the Yangtze River just east of Shanghai, Nanjing (南京 Nánjīng), which translates to "Southern Capital", served as the capital of several Chinese dynasties, including the Ming Dynasty and notably as the capital of the Republic of China. 

Nowadays, it's a vibrant metropolis that blends its rich history and culture with modern development. I was amazed at just how much it has changed in the 12 years since I lived there, now it truly is a fully fledged international city with all the amenities.

Where to Stay

If you're looking for a bit or luxury at a reasonable price, you can't do better than the Jinling Hotel, a five star hotel located in the heart of Nanjing's CBD which was actually the tallest building in China when it first opened back in 1983. Boasting rooms with stunning panoramic views of Nanjing, multiple restaurants, a fitness center, pool, spa and other facilities it's the perfect place to unwind after a day of exploring.

Jinling Hotel 金陵饭店
2 Hanzhong Lu, Gulou District
鼓楼区汉中路2号

What to See

There is no shortage of things to see and do in Nanjing, from historic sites like the Sun Yat Sen Mausoleum to scenic lakes or the bustling 1912 area, there's something for everyone. Here I've picked out a few spots that I think are a must see. 

Xuanwu Lake and the Old City Wall

A favorite place I'd go to escape the city when I lived in Nanjing, Xuanwu Lake is surrounded by lush greenery and offers striking views of Nanjing's skyline, plus it's completely free to visit! You can choose to just amble around the lake, opt for a sightseeing car or train or, my personal recommendation, buy some drinks and snacks from one of the many shops, cafes and eateries located inside the park and then rent a boat for a relaxing hour or two. 

Located right next to Xuanwu Lake's west and south side is a section of the Nanjing City Wall. Built during the Ming Dynasty under Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang, the wall originally stretched over 35km, making it the longest city wall in China. With 25km still intact, one of the best sections to visit is by Jiefangmen Gate where you can enjoy views of Xuanwu Lake, Purple Mountian, Nanjing's tallest building Zifeng Tower and Jiming Temple, which with its pagoda and bright yellow walls makes for a particularly lovely sight. 

Xuanwu Lake 玄武湖
玄武区玄武巷1号
1 Xuanwu Xiang, Xuanwu District
Hours: 6am-10pm
Price: Free

Jiefangmen Gate 解放门
8 Jiefangmen, Jimingsi Lu, Xuanwu District
玄武区鸡鸣寺路解放门8号
Hours: Apr-Oct, 8.30am-10pm; Nov-Mar 8.30am-9pm
Price: RMB 30

Niushoushan Cultural Park 

I was super excited to visit Niushoushan Cultural Park on my recent trip to Nanjing because this place didn't even exist back when I lived there. Having only been completed in 2015, the park is home to the Usnisa Palace and is perhaps one of the most impressive Buddhist palaces built in modern times. Although Niushoushan has a rich Buddhist history, it wasn't until a skull fragment believed to be from Sakyamuni – aka Siddhartha Gautama aka the Buddha – was discovered beneath a temple in Nanjing that this spot became a top attraction. The skull fragment is now enshrined within the Usnisa Palace in a project that cost a whopping RMB 4 billion to complete.

The palace is made up of nine floors, six of which are underground and is truly a sight to behold. A domed building, it blends ancient Buddhist architecture with modern design. The attention to detail is astounding with ornate decor, intricate carvings, beautiful murals and more. The Thousands Buddhas Hall and Ten Thousand Buddha Corridor are particularly grand and impressive with crystal orbs, gold gilding and exquisite paintings. 

As well as the Usnisa Palace, you can also wander around the park grounds and take in views of the Foding Pagoda, a four sided Tang dynasty style pagoda consisting of nine stories and standing at 88 meters tall. 

Niushoushan Cultural Park 牛首山文化旅游区
18 Ningdan Dadao, Jiangning District
江宁区宁丹大道18号
Hours: 8.30am-5.30pm
Price: RMB 160

Purple Mountain

Another favorite spot of mine to visit back in the day, Purple Mountain (also called Zhongshan Mountain National Park) has numerous tourist sites situated on its lush hills. The number one spot to visit has to be the Sun Yat Sen Mausoleum, which pays homage to Sun Yat Sen, the founding father of modern China. Completed in 1929, it's comprised of a stone stairway made up 392 steps and blends the styles of traditional imperial tombs and modern architecture.

Other spots worth visiting on the mountain if you want to make more of a day out of it are the Ming Tombs and Sacred Way, Linggu Temple and Toutuo Ridge – the main peak of Purple Mountain which you can either hike up to or get a cable car. 

Purple Mountain 紫金山
玄武区石象路7
Hours: 8am-5pm
Price: Free

Fuzimiao Area

Fuzimiao, which takes its name from the Confuscious Temple that's located there, is a bustling shopping and snack area situated by the Qinhuai River. The best time to visit is in the evening when it's all lit up but do be warned it can get pretty busy (think similar vibes to Nanluoguxiang in Beijing). A must do while you're here is to take a cruise along the river, not only can you avoid the crowds but also enjoy a variety of lit up displays. 

Fuzimiao Area 古秦淮夫子庙步行街
1-80, Gongyuan Jie, Fuzimiao Jiedao, Qinhuai District
秦淮区夫子庙街道贡院街80-1号
Hours: 24 hours
Price: Free

Brocade Museum and Memorial Hall of the Nanjing Massacre

Nanjing is home to a staggering 80+ museums but one that is a must visit is the Brocade Museum. It delves into the history of Nanjing Cloud Brocade (雲錦 Yúnjǐn), one of China's three most famous types of brocade (the other being Song from Suzhou and Shu from Chengdu). Cloud Brocade is incredibly intricate and it takes around eight hours to produce only a few centimetres of fabric. 

Across the road from the Brocade Museum is the Memorial Hall of the Nanjing Massacre, a somber experience but an important one. It stands as a solemn tribute to the thousands of lives lost during the horrific Nanjing Massacre of 1937, with exhibits showcasing personal stories, photographs and artifacts from the tragic event. The hall serves as both a historical record and a poignant reminder of the brutality, aiming to honor the victims while promoting peace and human rights.

Brocade Museum 南京云锦博物馆
240 Chating Dongjie, Jianye District
建邺区茶亭东街240号
Hours: 9.30am-5pm
Price: Free

Memorial Hall of the Nanjing Massacre 侵华日军南京大屠杀遇难同胞纪念馆-三个必胜展厅
418 Shuiximen Dajie, Jianye District
建邺区水西门大街418号
Hours: Tue-Sun, 8.30am-4.30pm(closed Mon)
Price: Free

Deji Art Musuem and Deji Plaza

Located on the eighth floor of Deji Plaza, Deji Art Museum has a range of permanent and special exhibitions. Of the permanent ones they have a pretty cool interactive exhibition called "An Era in Jinling: A Digital Art Exhibition". A digital rendering of a Qing dynasty scroll by Feng Ning is projected on a 110-meter screen. Visitors are given wristbands and can use their phones to choose a character and then interact with scenes and figures from the painting. This is definitely a good option if you've got kids in tow!

Deji Plaza itself has multiple restaurants and high end shops but what you really need to visit here are the toilets. Yes, you read that right! The toilets on each floor have a different theme, from a Zen garden to fluorescent disco or the chic sixth floor bathroom which has actually been dubbed the "World's Most Beautiful Public Bathroom", they certainly make going to the toilet more of a memorable experience. (My personal favorite was the fluorescent disco one.)  

Deji Plaza 德基广场
18 Zhongshan Lu, Xuanwu District
玄武区中山路18号
Hours: 10am-10pm
Price: Free

Deji Art Museum 德基艺术博物馆
8F, Phase II, Deji Plaza,.18 Zhongshan Lu, Xuanwu District
玄武区中山路18号德基广场二期8楼
Hours: Mon, Wed-Sun, 10am-10pm; Tue 2pm-10pm
Price: RMB 180

Food and Drink

Nanjing Food

No trip to Nanjing would be complete without trying some local Nanjing specialties, so here are five must try dishes: 

Nanjing Roast Duck (南京烤鸭 Nánjīng kǎoyā)  
While Beijing may be famous for Peking Duck, Nanjing takes the crown for duck consumption with it being estimated that the people of Nanjing consume over 100 million ducks each year. Nanjing Roast Duck is known for its crispy skin and tender meat, the duck is roasted with a marinade of soy sauce, honey, and aromatic spices. 

Tang Bao (汤包 tāng bāo)  
Tang Bao, or soup dumplings, are similar to Shanghai's xiaolongbao but with a thinner skin and more soup inside, they're traditionally filled with pork mince.

Salted Duck (盐水鸭 yánshuǐ yā)  
Another duck dish, the duck is brined with a selection of spices including Sichuan peppercorns, star anise, cinnamon and sometimes sweet osmanthus and then hung up to dry for around three days. It's normally served cold as an appetizer. 

Steamed Lotus Root Stuffed with Sweet Sticky Rice (糯米藕 nuòmǐ ǒu)  
This is a sweet dish where hollowed lotus root is stuffed with glutinous rice, steamed, and then simmered in a syrup made of sugar and osmanthus flowers. 

Duck Blood and Vermicelli Soup (鸭血粉丝汤 yā xiě fěnsī tāng)  
Certainly not everyone's cup of tea, however it is a beloved street food in Nanjing. It's made with a rich broth from duck bones, vermicelli noodles, and tender cubes of duck blood then normally garnished with tofu, cilantro, and duck offal.  

Nanjing Impressions

If you're looking for a spot to try these dishes, then you really can't do better than Nanjing Impressions. Founded relatively recently in 1994, there are now multiple branches across the city, as well as China wide – there are even a few branches in Beijing. 

Nanjing Impressions blends food with a full cultural experience, the venues are decked out with old style Chinese lanterns and classic wooden tables and stools, and the staff wear traditional Chinese dress. They also often have live music performances. To find all their branches just search for 南京大牌档 on Dianping. 

International Food

For those who are craving some international food and drink then there is no shortage of spots in Nanjing. They've got branches of popular chains like Alimentari, Brownstone, Shake Shack, COMMUNE, Blue Frog and Tairyo Teppanyaki. They've also got a number of independent places such as Finnegans Wake, Skyways, Foodgasm and many more, so no matter what food you're after there's a safe bet you'll be able to find it.

Nightlife: 1912 Bar Street

Last up we've got 1912, the main bar district in Nanjing is chock full of bars, restaurants and clubs. As a student, I spent many a night dancing the night away here, although in the ten-plus years since then it looks like most of my old haunts have transformed into something else. 

However, one place that is still going strong is Helen's (although it was called Ellen's back in my day) a popular bar, especially among students thanks to their cheap drink deals. 1912 now also has a COMMUNE, which is a great spot if you're a fan of craft beer. If you're looking for something a little more sophisticated, then Perch is a lovely little whisky and cocktail bar with super friendly staff and some banging signature cocktails. 

1912 Bar Street
8 Changjiang Houjie, Xuanwu District
玄武区长江后街8号
Hours: 24 hours
Price: Free

Nanjing with its rich history, vibrant culture, and modern charm, really is a great place to visit. Although I do perhaps hold some natural bias for the place I first lived in China, it truly does have so much to offer. So, if you’re looking for your next adventure, let Nanjing surprise you -- you won’t regret it!

Images: Katie Coy, courtesy of the venues
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