Spicy and Savory Surprises Abound On Cantina Agave's New Menu

Sure: Tacos, burritos, and nachos are all a given at Cantina Agave, the long-running American-Mexican restaurant on the third floor of Taikoo Li. Their take on that standard fare is flavorful, filling, and satisfying for anyone in need of a salsa and tortilla fix.

However, much has changed since this veteran establishment came onto the restaurant scene a few years ago. And with numerous other Mexican restaurants popping up all over town as of late, Cantina has wisely added a few fresh flourishes to remain a standout.

We're happy to tell you that, with many of its new dishes, Cantina succeeded in that regard. Kudos should go to their new chef – Daniel Lodraz, who hails from Spain and has a background in fine dining. Before this, he worked at Migas, but left a couple of months back to try his hand at this Mexican haunt.

Yeah, yeah, yeah ... We can already envision snooty skeptics griping about "authenticity" and "real Mexican food" after hearing that a Spanish chef has taken charge of Cantina's kitchen. That's, of course, a narrow-minded point that will be rendered moot the moment anyone catches a glimpse of the eye-catching new items on offer. And you'll become a downright devotee when you begin nibbling on many of these mouthwatering eats.  

First up: the ruleta rusa roast green peppers, sprinkled with lime and salt. They have a suitably crisp texture and overall light freshness that makes this dish an excellent late summer/early autumn starter. Some of the peppers on our plate were mild, and others were spicier than a supernova, which made for a fun guessing game element as far as we were concerned. Less adventurous patrons, or those of you who aren't into fiery fare as much as we are, should probably pass on this dish – it'll likely be a bit too intense for you. But some like it hot, and those patrons will enjoy this in all its spicy simplicity.

Better still: the baked queso cheese dip. Priced at RMB 40 and featuring gooey melted cheese, heartily salty Chorizo, and a sprinkling of jalapeno, this extremely filling dip is practically a meal unto itself. It's also a refreshingly unconventional dipping alternative to all-too-common nachos (don't worry, they have those too; with a plate full of delectable nachos setting you back RMB 55).

Other excellent starters include the RMB 75 ceviche de mariscos (a traditional mix of raw and marinated seabass, shrimp, and octopus that seafood fans will adore), the RMB 60 chorizo empanadas (made with baked chorizo, cheese, potato, and Chipotle cream) and RMB 50 taquitos de chilorio (a pair of rolled flour tortillas, with shredded braised pork and black bean puree).

Many old favorites remain on the must-try list: Their taco Tuesday promotion – RMB 100 for unlimited servings of every corn and flour soft taco on the menu – remains one of the best deals in Sanlitun. That's especially true when you take into account that those tacos come in delicious varieties like blackened fish, surf and turf, carnitas, and others. Meanwhile, their hard-shell tacos (once again, purists, open your minds and give 'em a try! They don't disappoint) are stuffed with seasoned ground beef and shredded cheddar, making them a crisp and flavorful treat that, for RMB 50 for three, are hard to pass up.

Drinks like the RMB 55 margaritas, RMB 50 sangrias, and others are all potent ways to wash these tasty eats down. Those drinks and a few others are available at happy hour prices, one of the best being a brunch deal where margaritas, sangrias and some other bevies are served free flow with brunch items from 11am-3pm on Saturdays and Sundays. Those brunch eats include a RMB 45 menudo (a traditional breakfast soup made with tripe, chickpeas, and corn), RMB 60 chorizo and scrambled eggs, carnitas breakfast burritos, and others. Many of these brunch items taste, sound and look Mexican through and through, rendering the Tex Mex hard-shell tacos an exception rather than the norm here (deliciously crunchy as they are).

Regardless of what springs to your mind when someone mentions Mexican food, or if you're hankering for eats that are Latin-inspired with unique twists, Cantina Agave's upgraded menu will surely have a few very suitable treats for you. All that and more should help this veteran restaurant remain an old favorite among many Beijing foodies for a long time to come.

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Email: kylemullin@thebeijinger.com
Twitter: @MulKyle

Photos: Courtesy of Cantina Agave