Chuan Ban: Beijing’s Best-Known Prov Gov is in Need of a Spicing Up

In the context of Beijing’s Provincial Government restaurants, Sichuan’s entry, which goes by Chuan Ban for short, is a bonafide heavyweight. Among Prov Gov canon, it’s the one that is sought out for its popularity as a standalone restaurant and has maintained a loyal following since opening in 1979. Diners will spot the building, which sits just north of Jiangguomen station, from the banner of Sichuan’s iconic Leshan Giant Buddha that adorns the outer wall. Its absence of color, bar a smudging of blue ink, serves as a nod to the restaurant’s lengthy existence. However, the restaurant is anything but blue, and is distinctive for eschewing the usual canteen hall chic of most Prov Govs and instead exhibits a certain flair thanks to a mishmash of private rooms, walkways, and water features replete with fish and flashing lights.

As you would hope, the menu is an encyclopedic collection of Sichuan province’s most beloved chili-laden dishes but despite its breadth, of most of the items we chose none truly hit the mark. Take the spicy rabbit (RMB 58) for example, which though generous in its portioning of meat, was dry and gamey to the point of being overbearing, canceling out any flavor from the accompanying celery and chilies. Similarly, the gongbao shrimp (RMB 78) was a balanced combination of leeks, peanuts, chilies, covered in a tangy-sweet sauce, but the shrimp sat just on the wrong side of chewy to allow it to compete with the best.

Meanwhile, the steamed beef (RMB 32) was lacking so much in seasoning that not even the liberal lashings of chili flakes and cilantro could cover up the fact that we had been served a basket of wet, tasteless meat. Though not a main, the best dish of the lot turned out to be the spicy dried radish (RMB 22), a rich and zesty mix of finely chopped radish and carrot, and slices of fatty pork, all bathed in sumptuous chili oil.

Slightly disheartened, we turned to the menu’s broad range of artery-clogging desserts to soothe our woes. The deep-fried rice cakes with brown sugar syrup (RMB 24) and the similarly dense pumpkin cakes (RMB 12) did just the trick.

While Chuan Ban is certainly a cut above the other Prov Govs, the plethora of excellent chuancai available to Beijingers nowadays compared to when it first opened nearly four decades ago means that flaws in the menu are only exaggerated. Just like with the faded poster that greets diners on the outside, it may be that the whole venue is long overdue a spicing up.

Chuan Ban
Mon-Fri 7-9am. 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat-Sun 7am-10pm. 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng District (6512 2277 ext 6101)
川办餐厅：东城区建国门内贡院头条5号

Photo: Tom Arnstein