To Borneo and Far Beyond at New Southeast Asian Restaurant Mulu
We’d be lying if we said that the main thing that usually draws us to WF Central in Wangfujing isn’t the Cheesecake Factory but while we’ve been cheesecake-ing ourselves into a diabetic coma, a number of other interesting restaurants have also moved into the space, from renowned ramen shop Zagin Soba to pan-Southeast Asian restaurant Mulu.
Opened just a few months ago on the fourth floor of the mall, Mulu serves dishes from across the ten ASEAN countries, including Thai green papaya salad, Vietnamese pho, and Malaysian nasi lemak, among others.
The inspiration for both the restaurant’s name and its interior is the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Gunung Mulu National Park, noted for its caves and surrounding rainforest, in Sarawak, Malaysia. However, don’t go in expecting a kitsch Rainforest Cafe vibe; the interior design is slick and modern, with details that nod towards the Sarawak-inspired theme rather than hitting you round the face with it. For example, a skylight at the end of the restaurant hints at the national park’s famous caves, complete with abstract bat-shaped lighting.
Once settled, we ordered the aforementioned green papaya salad with tiger prawns (RMB 88) and an appetizer platter (RMB 168) – a good way to sample dishes from several different countries in one fell swoop. Many of the recipes come from owner Jasmine Kho's own family and she told us that even though the interior of the restaurant is quite upscale, she still wants the dishes to feel "homestyle," something that comes through best in the more comforting dishes such as the rich curries or the Penang-style char kway tiaw. Prices are reasonable (although not cheap) for Southeast Asian food of this quality and setting in Beijing, and portions are large, making them best for sharing.
One dish that we weren’t particularly willing to share was the delicious Sarawak laksa (RMB 118), rice vermicelli, shredded omelet, tofu puffs, and prawns in a highly aromatic chicken and seafood broth. The laksa is lighter on the coconut and dried shrimp than other versions of laksa from elsewhere in Malaysia but is definitely not light on spices, boasting 36 different varieties. Dianping currently has a deal running that gets you the laksa and a glass of Mulu’s signature limeade (made with several types of citrus, peel, and all) for RMB 98.
Mulu were doing some work on the bar and drinks menu when we visited and in the future, they hope to make it the sort of place you could stop and have a few drinks before or after dinner (which will certainly ease the trip to Wangfujing if you happen to be coming from far away). We did get the chance to try one cocktail, the Feng Shui (RMB 78), a blend of gin, basil syrup, lime, pineapple, ginger, and bitters that tasted decidedly like we should be drinking it under an umbrella on a Malaysian beach rather than in Beijing on a cold winter night.
Thanks to the breadth and choice of its menu, Mulu will be a good option for groups of diners or the terminally indecisive and certainly adds a little spice to the dining line-up in WF Central.
Mulu WFC
401C, 4/F, WF Central, 269 Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District (6525 9581)
东城区王府井大街269王府中環4层401室
While you're there, check out Zagin Soba, and their winter-chill-obliterating "cappuccino" chicken broth ramen.
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Photos: Robynne Tindall, courtesy of Mulu
