Back For More: Niajo

"Back for More” is a regular magazine column in which we revisit old favorites.

Niajo got a new look this summer before celebrating its third birthday in October. The renovation is mature, with accents of color among muted brick that are enough to spark an atmosphere without overdoing it.

The biggest draw of this Valencian restaurant continues to be its paella, which arrives in massive cast-iron pans. The paella del sinoret (RMB 238) is royal fare, with king prawns garnishing the top and a complement of seafood mixed into the rice. We would have enjoyed a tad more crunch to the edges of the rice, but the taste was on point.

The tapas menu i s divided between traditional Spanish and modern options. Iberico ham and chicken croquettes (RMB 69) are meltingly good with a crusty armor. On the modern side, an esgarraet (RMB 95), a combination of dried tuna and codfish, was puzzlingly devoid of salt, though a sea bass with lentils (RMB 98) made up for it by pairing a lofty piece of fish with a helping of earthy legumes.

We tried the chocolate coulant with red and white grape ice cream (RMB 70) and were quickly licking the plate. The grape flavor comes through surprisingly strong in the ice cream, and it tucked into the molten chocolate with all the finesse of a Chinese Olympic diver.

With a wine list comprised of Spanish wines, Niajo is deeply faithful to its motherland. It’s arguably the most rustic and traditional of all the Spanish restaurants in Nali Patio, but it’s hard to consider that a bad thing when you’re loosening your belt after a third helping of paella.

Also try: Carmen, Saffron

Niajo Daily 11am-3pm, 6-11pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (5208 6052) 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层

By subway: 900m northwest of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10)

Click here to see the November issue of the Beijinger in full.

Photo: Mitchell Pe Masilun