Back For More: Small Plates of Pleasure

“Back for More” is a regular magazine column in the Beijinger in which we revisit old favorites.

Mosto’s younger sibling is like a rebellious teenager: pushing back against being pigeonholed, and wary of being misunderstood. In Modo’s case, those admirable qualities come thankfully free of adolescent angst, so I reckon I can have a stab at describing the restaurant without having the door slammed in my face.

Traditional “courses” are dispensed with; instead, the menu is made up of “small plates.” The “international dining” label doesn’t serve much purpose, nor does trying to pin Modo down to a country or region. It’s just good, creative food.

If you drop by between the lunch and dinner rush, you’ll discover Modo is now open all day, with a selection of cold small plates available for afternoon passers-by, as well as a new range of fresh smoothies. Evening is the best time to visit, though. Three “Chef’s Menus” (RMB 395-620), designed for two diners to share, offer a simple introduction. From the “8 to Share” menu (RMB 620), the goat cheese and feta tortelli with sun-dried tomatoes is pretty special, while the Japanese scallop, served with curried cauliflower and bacon, is fresh and full of flavor. Or go a la carte and add the superbly tender beef tenderloin tournedos (RMB 95). From the “Dulces” selection, the goat cheese panna cotta with basil foam is a subtle treat.

Don’t forget to charge a card for the Enomatic wine dispenser. Around RMB 100 allows for one full glass and leaves you room to try a few samples (from about RMB 10 for 15ml). This is what Modo is all about: discovering new flavors and experiences. The enjoyment here is in ordering a variety of dishes, encountering surprising combinations of flavors, exploring the wine and, ultimately, wanting more.

Modo Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm. 3/F, Sanlitun Village South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6415 7207) 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区3层

Photo courtesy of Modo