Spice Outside: Wangjing Yihao Courtyard Restaurant

Believe it or not, a reliable way of discovering a nice Chinese restaurant can be to ask your non-Chinese friends. When a renowned Belgian restaurant owner – a man who doesn’t eat spicy food – told me that one of his favorites is a Sichuan restaurant, I was instantly intrigued. That’s how I discovered Wangjing Yihao, a hidden fairyland in northeast Beijing.

This courtyard was once a post house for Qing emperors – it was the stop closest to the Forbidden City. On one visit, Empress Cixi announced: “I can almost see the gate tower at Dongzhimen.” Hence the name Wangjing – “overlook Beijing.” The sense of history manifests in two 200-year-old crabapple trees, stood like giant umbrellas in the yard. They bloom in early April, with pink petals adding an extra note of flavor when the wind picks up. Imagine a table of pungent Sichuan food, flavors offset by flower-scented air. That was how we enjoyed a lunchtime escape from the city.

That dreamy scene only lasts for a week every year, but the dishes are popular all year round. Their catfish in chilli oil (水煮鲶鱼 RMB 78) is one of the best shuizhu yu around, fragrant but not overly oily or spicy. As a river fish, catfish needs strong seasonings – if not heavily marinated before cooking, it can taste too earthy. The highlight is the texture of the fish slices, with a layer of slippery, jelly-like skin and transparent fish oil underneath. If you prefer your protein land-based, I would recommend the stewed spicy rabbit (泉水兔 RMB 30/jin) for its firm and fresh meat. Should you want the challenge of something much spicier, try the Chongqing lazi ji (重庆辣子鸡 RMB 72).

For something green, try the cucumber and basil leaf salad (苏子叶拍黄瓜 RMB 10), or cabbage stir-fried with strings of young green peppers (鲜花椒圆白菜 RMB 12). Homemade red bean buns (RMB 15/dozen) are a lovely sweet staple to soothe the stomach.

Wangjing Yihao
Daily 11am-11pm. 1 Dawangjing Village, Dongxindian (near the side road of Wuyuan Qiao), Chaoyang District (6432 0332)
望京一号, 朝阳区东辛店大望京村1号(近五元桥辅路)

Photos: Judy Zhou