The Chaoyang Chopper: Grange Chef David Mitford

Chef David Mitford has been blazing a culinary trail across the globe since the late 80’s, serving successful stints in his native UK, Bermuda, Bahrain and the USA. In his current post as Chef de Cuisine at Grange at The Westin Beijing Chaoyang, chef Mitford found time to share some insights and experiences.

Where else around the world have you cooked, and how do your experiences in Beijing compare?
I’ve cooked in the UK, Bermuda, Colorado and Bahrain. The local Cantonese takeaway was not the best influence when it came to the idea of Chinese food, but as a kid, who knew! Now here in China, wow, all countries have regional food but China seems just to have no end of tastes, flavors and textures. From street food to fine dining and hotpot to dumplings, the regions are so vast – from Hunan to Sichuan and, of course, the real Cantonese food of Hong Kong.

What has been your proudest accomplishment as a chef?
One highlight was being selected to do the New World of Food and Wine Festival in Singapore in 2004 – an amazing event!

It was my executive chef’s old hotel – the Ritz-Carlton Millennia Singapore. I was straight off the airplane and into the kitchen, just as I was watching my F&B director sipping a glass of bubbly! The event only lasted ten days, but it was a rough seven or eight in the morning till about midnight each day. However, I can’t say for sure where the days went as there was so much going on. It was the eighth and sadly the last New World Food and Wine, but they did it in style, launching the Asian Tapas cookbook as part of the event. There were over 11,000 pieces of food, plus cheese, seafood, Japanese and live cooking stations at the opening cocktail ceremony.

I was there just to muck in, Chef Christophe Megel and his team as¬signed the chefs (from all over the world) to functions to work with celebrated top chefs. I had my hands in everywhere but was lucky to be with Iron Chef Morimoto, and also to be assigned to the Sun Pavilion (fine dining Chinese restaurant) with Chef Fok and his team. Now that was an experience – I tasted way too much food. It also was a first incitement toward my subsequent, current Chinese adventure.

Favorite piece of kitchen equipment?
My Kenwood Multi Blender I have at home – fantastic! It dices, slices, juices, blends and has two chopping attachments. With a baby (now toddler) on board it all came down to the blending and pureeing of everything – soup in the freezer and so on.

What was the inspiration behind Chop Shop?
As we were designing the selection of chops on the grill menu, we were looking for that “WOW!” dish, just to get our guests and friends thinking, “Can I?” Then the challenge aspect of it kicked in – we have a fine grill and plenty of steaks, so what next?

We decided on the three chops (veal, pork and lamb), then moved on to the side dishes (choice of six: paprika & honey butternut squash, braised green cabbage and bacon, chunky beer-battered onion rings, and mashed potato and green asparagus). Of course, since it is a challenge to finish it all, those who are successful will receive their just rewards – one of our fine Penfolds wines on the house!

Which wines do you prefer for the best pairings with various cuts of meat?
It comes down to individual preference, but some suggestions:
Chicken – Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and even a new world Shiraz will hit the spot with grilled chicken wings.
Steaks – Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. For beef dishes with Asian tastes try a Riesling.
Lamb – Barbaresco, Bordeaux
Veal – Barolo (in richer dishes), or even a Cotes du Rhone.
Cod or salmon – For a hearty and meaty or oily fish off the grill, try a Sauvignon Blanc.
Pork – White Zinfandel
Crab Cake – Give a Riesling a whirl.

Which country do you think is most underrated in terms of cuisine?
Vietnam has great dishes – fresh, crisp hand rolls and hearty broths and soups. Unfortunately it seems to be often wrapped up in a blanket with all the Asian cuisines, and overlooked as a result – especially with the strengths of Chinese, Thai and Japanese cuisines.

What is the most exciting thing about food you’ve learned in China?
The diversity of the cuisine, with all the provinces having their own distinct character and strengths, and also understanding the fine dining side of Chinese cuisine and the ingredients being used to enhance dishes. For example, Sichuan pepper, as it’s more aro¬matic than black pepper, just gives another lip smack. Also XO Sauce has loads going on, with dried scallop, chili, scented oil, and is great with seafood, meat dishes, even good old fava beans – important to use in moderation, of course.

What have you and your team done to evolve the culinary concept at Grange?
We have launched a new menu, which is the base for us to keep moving, refining the grill house concept. We have made a couple of the dishes on the larger side, and also included a larger choice of side dishes. The biggest change was adding two signature dishes, the Seafood Platter – big enough for two – and of course, the Chop Shop, our veal, lamb and pork chop platter with five different sides. Finish the whole lot and a bottle of Penfolds can be yours.

What are some of your favorite venues around town?
Well, as a huge rugby fan, I like The Den, Frank’s Place and even the Goose & Duck. For Mexican food, though I rarely have an opportunity, I enjoy the food at The Saddle, along with a cold Corona, of course. As for Chinese food, love finding little places around, but of course also Ding Tai Fung, Da Dong and Zen5es. Not able to get out much, but when I do, it’s good to catch up with chef buddies at places like Maison Boulud, Tavola and Sureño, try their wares.

Grange Daily 5.30pm-11pm, Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm. 2/F, The Westin Beijing Chaoyang, 7 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5922 8880) 朝阳区东三环北路7号

The Den Daily 24hrs. 4 Gongti Donglu (next to City Hotel’s main entrance), Chaoyang District. (6592 6290) 敦煌, 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边

Frank’s Place Daily 8am-2am. Jiangtai Xilu, west of Rosedale Hotel, Lido area, Chaoyang District. (6437 8399) 朝阳区丽都将台西路

Goose & Duck Daily 24hrs. S1, Green Lake International Tower, Chaoyang District. (5928 3045) 鹅和鸭, 朝阳区朝阳公园桥东侧路北观湖国际大厦1号写字楼首层

The Saddle Daily 11am-late. West wing, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5208 6005) 朝阳区三里屯北路81号北京那里花园内西侧二层小楼

Ding Tai Fung 1) Mon-Fri 11.30am-9.30pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. 7/F, Dangdai Shangcheng, 40 Zhongguancun Dajie, Haidian District. (6269 6726); 2) Daily 11.30am-9.30pm. 6/F, Shin Kong Place, China Central Place, 87 Jian¬guo Lu, Chaoyang District. (6533 1536); 3) Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm. 24 Xinyuan Xili Zhongjie, Chaoyang District. (6462 4502) 鼎泰丰, 1) 海淀区中关村大街40号当代商城7层; 2) 朝阳区建国路87号华贸中心新光天地6层; 3) 朝阳区新源西里中街24号

Da Dong Roast Duck Daily 11am-10pm. 1) 5/F, Jinbao Dasha, Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District. (8522 1234); 2) 1-2/F, Nanxincang International Plaza, 22A Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District. (5169 0329); 3) 3 Tuanjiehu Beikou, Dongsanhuan Lu (southeast corner of Changhong Qiao), Chaoyang District. (6582 2892/4003) 北京大董烤鸭店, 1) 东城区金宝街金宝大厦5层; 2) 东城区东四十条甲22号南新仓国际大厦1~2楼(立交桥西南角); 3) 朝阳区团结湖北口3号楼东三环路(长虹桥东南角)
Zen5es Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 4/F, Westin Beijing Chaoyang, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (5922 8888 ext 8121) 朝阳区新源南路1号，朝阳威斯汀大酒店4层

Maison Boulud Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-4pm, 6-10.30pm. Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6559 9200) 布鲁宫法餐厅, 东城区前门东大街23号

Tavola Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm. 2/F, The Grand Summit, Section B, Liangmaqiao Diplomatic Mansion, 19 Dongfang Donglu, Chaoyang District. (8532 5068) 朝阳区东方东路19号亮马桥外交公寓会所2层

Sureño Daily noon-3.30pm, 6-10.30pm. B1/F, The Opposite House, The Village at Sanlitun, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6410 5240) www.surenorestaurant.com 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯Village瑜舍地下1层