Swirling, Sniffing, and Swishing: Tasting Wines at the Grape Wall Challenge

On a hot, muggy Beijing day, nothing was more enjoyable than spending the morning swirling, sniffing, and swishing (and spitting) glass upon glass of chilled white wine in the cool comfort of Maison Boulud’s elegant bar. On June 24, the Grape Wall of China hosted its Second Grape Wall Challenge, where Chinese wine consumers (as well as a few experts and journalists) tasted and scored over 40 red and white wines. The hook was that each bottle is under RMB 100 and is widely available in Beijing, and to some extent, throughout China.

The growing popularity of wine in China undeniable, but there is a certain popular fear of its inaccessibility. In this new market, who really knows about bouquets and tannins, whether a wine is oaky or chocolaty or smoky? The organizers of this event wanted to demonstrate to the average Chinese consumer that wine, even inexpensive wine, can be enjoyed without an expert palate.

As a judge on the white wine panel, I tasted 18 wines, and rated them on “love it,” “like it,” “don’t like it” and “hate it.” In general they were decent, drinkable wines; there were a couple I couldn’t spit out fast enough … and a couple that I enjoyed enough to drink the whole glass (wine-tasting etiquette be damned!). During the tasting, everyone was all business, with no talking allowed. But afterwards, we discussed our top choices, and some of the panel seemed amazed that everyone had different favorites, for different reasons. But that was the point – to show enjoyment of wine is by individual preference, and does not necessitate years of expertise nor a fat wallet.

As for me, my favorite was the Callia Alta, a 2009 Chardonnay-Torrontes from Argentina that sells for only RMB 83. Judging by the final results I wasn't the only one. No doubt I’m going to run out this weekend and buy a few bottles for the liquor cabinet – better yet, I’ve learned many distributors deliver to your home – so no need to venture back out into the summer heat.

Check out the list below for the wines that were "liked" by one or more consumer judges, and check out the Grape Wall of China website for a rundown on where you can purchase them around town.

The event organizers were Nicolas Carre, Frankie Zhao and Jim Boyce, and Maison Boulud, and Winpact sponsored the event.

WHITE WINES

Of the 18 wines in the white wine portion, nine wines received an “I liked it” ranking or higher from the consumer judges.

1
Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2009, South Africa, from French Wine Paradox, RMB75
Henri Ehrhart Pinot Blanc 2008, France, from CMP, RMB99

3
Double Bay Semillon-Chardonnay 2007, Australia, from Links, RMB95

4
Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Chile, from ASC, RMB87

5
Black Wing Chardonnay 2008, Australia, from Sea & Sun, RMB75
Callia Alta Chardonnay-Torrontes 2009, Argentina, from Torres, RMB83
Ampakama Viognier 2008, Argentina, from Enoteca, RMB98

8
Martins Andino White 2009, Argentina, from French Wine Paradox, RMB65
Las Condes Chardonnay 2009, Chile, from East Meets West, RMB86

~

RED

Of the 22 wines in the contest, the following received an “I liked it” ranking or higher from the consumer judges.

1
Black Wing Shiraz 2006, Australia, from Sea & Sun, RMB87

2
Finca el Origen Malbec 2008, Argentina, from Aussino, RMB90

3
Las Condes Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Chile, from East Meets West, RMB86
Two Oceans Shiraz 2009, South Africa, from ASC, RMB84
Sacred Hill Shiraz 2008, Australia, from Torres, RMB87
Sacred Hill Cabernet-Merlot 2008, Australia, from Torres, RMB87
Mont Besson Syrah-Grenache 2008, France, from Globus, RMB88
Paso del Sol Merlot 2008, Chile, from DT Asia, RMB90
Monastier Shiraz 2009, France, from DT Asia, RMB98
Fortant Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, France, from ASC, RMB92
Santa Carolina Carmenere 2008, Chile, from Aussino, RMB98

12
Retamo Bonarda-Malbec 2009, Argentina, from Summergate, RMB89
Ramirana Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Chile, from Top Cellar, RMB94
El Vuelo Merlot 2009, Chile, from Links, RMB98
Manon Tempranillo 2008, Spain, from Globus, RMB99