Tall Order: Contemporary International Cuisine at Grill 79

On a clear day, all of Beijing is spread under your feet at Grill 79. The name is half-correct – the restaurant is indeed on the 79th floor, but it is no mere steakhouse. With a tight menu both intricate and intriguing, it aims for culinary heights befitting its status as the highest restaurant in town.

Appetizers best display Chef Jean-Paul Lordes’ creativity. The sweetness of the compressed watermelon,buttery brioche croutons and the warm croquette are magical in the manchego starter (RMB 138), highlighted by the sharp salt of the transparent cheese blanket. A cornucopia of ingredients – from avocado to foie gras to gratuitous flower petals – resulted in a visually stunning, innovative, but confused hamachi starter (RMB 184). Conversely, the edible flowers atop the sea scallops (RMB 194) complement the dish properly, making it look as lovely as it tasted. The scallops were perfect and the mustard ice cream bright, marrying well with sautéed apple and bacon crumbles.

This ingredient fiesta falters a bit with mains. Though plated beautifully, the duck (RMB 268) was slightly overcooked and its many accoutrements distracting. The sour plum paste was spot-on, but the meringue and rose petals added little. The grilled Wagyu and sous-vide charcoal oil cod look promising, though, and the sides (RMB 78), especially the shallot tart, are faultless.

Winningly, bacon crumbles were everywhere – surprisingly best with the cheesecake (RMB 84); scattered almond shortcake added texture, chillied pineapple heat, and julienned basil bitterness. It is hands-down one of Beijing’s best desserts. If Grill 79’s gastronomic acrobatics sound daunting, go for the desserts and an unparalleled view in a classy setting … just wait for a clear day.

Also try: Maison Boulud, SALT

Standout dishes: New York cheesecake, transparent manchego

Mon-Thu & Sun noon-2am; Fri-Sat noon-4am. 79/F, China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (6505 2299 ext 6424) 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店79楼