Grape Press: Cellar's Market

“Designer” wines take on a number of different forms. Celebrity golfers like Nick Faldo, Jack Nicklaus, Ernie Els and Luke Donald collaborate with wineries to produce wines under their own labels. “Buyer’s Own Brand” wines are slightly different. International retailers like Tesco or Marks & Spencer, wine merchants like Berry Bros. & Rudd and specialist stores like Fauchon all work with multiple wineries to produce a range of products.

The real challenge for Beijing consumers is the problem of wine retail itself – witness the demise of Fauchon and Piazza Italia. Supermarkets such as Carrefour can be good sources of wine, but beware older vintages and bottles warm to the touch. Few independent merchants exist, apart from Top Cellar and a few standalone shops.

It’s not surprising, then, that Beijing wine lovers like to order straight from importers. But do make sure to ask about how companies store their wine, as well as delivery options. This month’s wine selections come from companies with a proven track record of service and are mostly the kinds of wine that shouldn’t be kept too long! Only with rotating stock and careful handling can they reach the consumer in good condition.

One to Quaff
2009 Pinot Grigio IGT Venezie, Corte Giara
RMB 140 (Summergate)
Available at Mare, Assaggi
Crisp Pinot Grigio with trademark pear and green apple fruit.

One to Drink
2009 Moscato d’Asti, Pio Cesare, Piemonte, Italy
RMB 217 (Torres)
Available at Jenny Lou’s
Classic Moscato d’Asti with orange blossom and aromatic fruits.

One to Savor
2007 Seresin Rachel Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
RMB 520 (The Wine Republic)
Available at Swiss Bar
While this wine could certainly be aged, Pinot Noir is especially vulner-able to poor handling when shipped. Fortunately, this single-vineyard Marlborough Pinot with luscious red cherry fruit is a winner.

Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Fine Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.

Photos courtesy of Seresin, Winebow and Tony Cenicola of The New York Times.