Back for More: Igor Macchia Paints Italian at Aria
Hot on the heels of chef Rene Meillieur, whose cuisine we featured yesterday, masterful Michelin-starred Italian chef Igor Macchia is back in Beijing. I met him on his last visit to the capital eight months ago, and had the chance to catch up with him again as he launched his week-long stint at China World Hotel’s Aria.
So what’s new with chef Macchia? Well, he’s still from Piedmont, but he’s got some great facial hair this time, and he’s bringing some fresh, colorful regional Italian cuisine on the set menu he’s prepared for Aria (available until June 30). Here are a few highlights.
Perhaps the most picturesque example is the lobster carpaccio with lemon and tomato confit (RMB 225). Scattered with flashes of color, it’s a fresh, striking start to a meal. All the elements – light orange lobster meat, dark green basil, golden-yellow lemon confit, red sun-dried tomato, light green arugula, black pepper and rock salt flakes – combine to create a prosperous, colorful landscape of a dish.
The risotto might look soggy, but in fact it’s true to the al dente standard. In fact, thanks to the use of Carnaroli rice, prevalently used in North Italy, in place of the more commonly used Arborio, it’s perhaps even firmer than typical risotto. The red pepper, parsley sauce and anchovies (RMB 125) are all common ingredients in Piedmont cooking. Like natural salt and MSG, the anchovies add something savory to the sweet background provided by the pepper.
Continuing with the regional theme, the agnolotti (Piedmont-style ravioli) prepared with hazelnut oil and grana padano (RMB 265) and served on a napkin, would be revolutionary in its boldness of presentation – were it not, as Igor informs me, another Piedmont tradition.
However, all this tradition is simply a starting point for the refinement Macchia applies to each dish. Unlike the traditional Christmas version of the dessert, the Panettone(RMB 80) is deconstructed and given a brand new form, temperature and texture, though still manages to retain its identifiable flavor with mandarins, chocolate chips and dried fruits.
Right, that’s the food. Now here’s what chef Macchia had to say when I got a few minutes with him …
What would you have for your last meal on Earth?
As an Italian from Piedmont, I appreciate simplicity, so I’d choose something traditional and simple such as agnolotti.
How do you get your inspiration for cooking?
Dining in a galaxy of restaurants. I’m single, so I don’t usually eat at home. I’ve only cooked for myself three times in the last five years.
What was the biggest change you witnessed in your restaurant La Credenza after being awarded your first Michelin star?
My restaurant got its first Michelin star in 2006. Before that, the restaurant was always full, so the business didn’t benefit from the awards as much as some restaurants do. But the attitude of guests was different afterwards: They began to come with high expectations. After the first Michelin star, we couldn’t afford any mistakes, from reservations, to service and food. We had to be consistently perfect.
Your favorite Chinese food?
Sichuan hot pot is one of my personal favorites. I’ve been to Chengdu twice, and the experience was so memorable. It’s damn hot!
Any plans for your future?
I’m working on a recipe book called New Season, a full record of the dishes served at my restaurant, complete with lots of vivid images and thoughtful explanations. It’s supposed to be published in October, in both English and Italian.
Taste Piedmont with chef Igor Macchia at Aria, China World Hotel, before June 30.
