Chow Fun for Hipsters: Cantonese Treats in Gulou

This spotlessly simple Cantonese “teahouse” smells like it could be in Hong Kong or Taiwan, and not just because the Guangdong chefs can cook. Ying He is one of few Gulou eateries abiding by the smoking ban officially introduced (if not strictly enforced) on May 1.

For a quick bite, try the zajun chao hefen (杂菌炒河粉RMB 16), a beautiful plate of broad, golden rice noodles fried with vibrant veggies and a trio of mushrooms. Light on oil, big on taste, it’s the pick of a single-serving selection including classy clear soups and umpteen tasty things on rice (RMB 15-22).

Sharers should choose from a selection of zhengcai (蒸菜) served in lotus-leaf-lined bamboo steamers. Pork ribs with cured sausage (RMB 28) can be enjoyed, chewy bones and all. Baiqie ji (白切鸡RMB 25) – unskinned chicken steamed to ethereal softness and served chilled with ginger sauce – is a cooling summer lunch and pairs perfectly with seasonal fruit juice, iced milk tea or fresh lemonade (RMB 8-13).

Standout dishes: Fried noodles with mixed mushrooms, steamed lotus-leaf pork ribs
Also try: Herbal Cafe, Xiao Che’s Dessert Shop

Ying He Cantonese Restaurant盈和茶餐厅
Daily 11.30am-1am. 128 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District (6402 6596)
东城区鼓楼东大街128号

Photos: Judy Zhou