Meatless Marvel: The Veggie Table

I learned a new word here: “herbivurger.” It’s fun to say, like “apparatchik” or “Postlethwaite.” But more importantly, I learned that a burger sans meat can be fun to eat. The shiitake mushroom burger (RMB 62) would bully many of Beijing’s beefy sandwiches out of the ballpark – and I should know. Sesame-studded, stodgy whole wheat bread encloses a fat, herby ’shroom patty, served with deliciously crispy “baked” home fries and coleslaw cut by someone who understands the stuff. This big, bad plate of vegan grub makes no apologies and takes no prisoners.

Other big hitters included a shockingly pink beet salad spiked with crunchy walnuts (RMB 22), hummus thick like nearly-set cement (RMB 25), and ajvar, a paste of eggplant, onion and red pepper spread on dark rye bread (RMB 28).

One thing that’s irked me about veganism is the attraction it presents to people who are susceptible to dieting or health fads. Anti-foodies, you might call them, the type who would give up eating if there was a pill substitute. They give proper vegans and vegetarians a bad name.

My point is that it doesn’t matter if The Veggie Table is “vegan” or not. It’s a damn good feed. You suspect the folks behind it are guilty bingers and midnight snackers like the rest of us, whether or not they choose lentils over lamb.

Speaking of lentils, the dal bhat (RMB 65), served with organic brown rice, is another gutsy, flavor-packed dish, best washed down with one of the well-chosen craft beers. What a great place.

Standout dishes: Mushroom burger, dal bhat
Also try: Pure Lotus Vegetarian, Loving Hut

The Veggie Table
Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. 19 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District (6446 2073) 东城区五道营胡同19号