Grape Press: Viennese Swirl

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.

In 1985, the Austrian wine industry was shaken by the revelation that some producers had added diethylene glycol (a toxic component of antifreeze) to their wines. This dubious practice was designed to enhance the wines’ body. Since 1993, Austria has instituted some of the toughest wine laws in the world. The red and white “banderole” on the neck of each bottle is proof that the wine has been tested for quality and origin.

In the late 1990s, Austria’s signature white grape, Grüner Veltliner, often sealed under screw-cap, catapulted the country’s wines back into the limelight. Dubbed “Gru Ve” (i.e. “groovy”), the grape became fashionable with sommeliers and now covers one-third of Austria’s vineyards.

The current buzz is for Austrian dry reds. Grapes like Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch may be hard to pronounce, but are capable of producing excellent reds in various styles. Some of Austria’s greatest sweet wines, often from Riesling and the unrelated Welschriesling, hail from the Burgenland region.

Not many importers handle Austrian wines here. The Wine Republic leads the way in selections.

ONE TO QUAFF
2010 Nigl “Freiheit” Grüner Veltliner, Kremstal
(The Wine Republic, RMB 270)
Available at Mosto, Nola
Textbook Grüner Veltliner. Medium green color with a nose of green apple, white pepper and mineral aromas. Medium-bodied with intense fruit, medium acidity and satisfying length.

ONE TO DRINK
2008 Heinrich Zweigelt, Burgenland
(The Wine Republic, RMB 297)
www.thewinerepublic.com
One of the most respected Austrian producers. Deep garnet with an attractive nose of red cherry, plum, berry fruits and various spices. Medium-bodied with integrated medium tannins, lifting moderate acidity with good balance and attractive length.

ONE TO SAVOR
2008 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Kamptal (375 ml)
(EMW, RMB 1,150)
www.emw-wines.com
Trockenbeerenauslese, an intensely sweet wine handpicked from nobly-rotten grapes, is rare and highly prized. This Riesling example is deep green-gold with candied apple, honey and botrytis aromas. Lusciously sweet on the palate with high acidity, huge complexity and stunning length.

Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.

Click here to see the April issue of the Beijinger in full.