Grape Press: Blanc Check

Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc continue to be two of the world’s most popular white grape varieties, made in various styles to suit almost all thirsty palates. While red wine still dominates the China market, there are encouraging signs that certain whites (much-oaked Chardonnay, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and sparkling Moscato) are taking hold.

But there is a big world out there of refreshing, modern whites with attractive, clean fruit flavors derived from improved winemaking all over the globe. Since the 1980s, when temperature control became the vogue in wineries and white wine-making began to be better understood, quality has risen exponentially.

This month’s recommendations all focus on less well-known, dry whites that should all represent very pleasant, early summer drinking!

ONE TO QUAFF
2008 Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marche, Italy
(CWS, RMB 118)
Available at Assaggi, 1949–Jinbao Jie
Verdicchio is one of Italy’s great white grapes, capable of making simple, fruit-forward wines and examples that age especially well, taking on a nutty, complex character. Medium green-gold in color, the nose has attractive lemon citrus fruit with an almond note, followed up by a light-bodied palate of refreshing high acidity. Good value!

ONE TO DRINK
2009 Veiga Serantes, Rías Baixas, Spain
(The Wine Republic, RMB 297)
Available at The Opposite House, Nola
Galicia’s Rías Baixas is a region in which the Albariño grape thrives. Medium green-gold in color, this wine has green apple, white peach and floral aromas with a touch of minerality. Mouthwatering high acidity on a light- to medium-bodied palate with good length.

ONE TO SAVOR
2010 Gaia Assyrtiko “Wild Ferment,” Santorini, Greece
(Globus, RMB 318)
Available at www.globus-wine.com
One of the great “secrets” of Greece, Assyrtiko is a grape which flourishes on the wind-swept island of Santorini, home to some of the world’s oldest vines. Medium-green in color, with a nose offering lovely lemon and lime citrus, white flowers, peach and other stone fruit aromas. An especially refreshing, light-medium bodied palate, with high acidity and very good length.

Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.

Click here to see the May issue of the Beijinger in full.