Navigating a Land of Extremes: Varanasi, India

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Varanasi, the "City of Learning and Burning" may be lacking in grandiose icons like the extravagant marble mausoleum in Agra, or historic forts and opulent palaces of Rajasthan, but Varanasi is to be experienced, to be felt, and to be touched.

To describe the Varanasi experience as a mere multisensory assault would be a sheer understatement. It is a confounding medley of contrasts and extremes.

One of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, spiritual Varanasi, is exciting and intimidating, yet underneath that palpitating heartbeat, manages to evoke an inexplicable sense of calm and inner tranquility. "Aum nama Shivaya" (a mantra giving praise to Lord Shiva) the pilgrims would chant on their way to the ghats, gathering followers along the way, hypnotic rhythms permeating the consciousness, and even as a passing non-believing observer, I felt strangely compelled to join the growing procession.

Varanasi is both fetid and fragrant, maddening and melodious. No words can fully describe the paradox of emotions. The intoxicating incense, innumerable bovine "landmines," cacophony of blaring horns and meditative chants, oftentimes all at once. Varanasi is intense.



The heart of Varanasi is no doubt the river Ganga (Ganges), where Hindu pilgrims from all walks of life and from all over the country come to be humbled, to get closer to spiritual enlightenment. It is a sacred river where laundry is done, bodies of dead relatives are cremated and whose ashes are scattered into, and where ironically, people also come to purify themselves by dipping their whole bodies in the sadly polluted river.

Varanasi at dusk and dawn offers different experiences. In the evening, the "Ganga Aarti" – ritual worship to give thanks to the divine river Ganga, takes place on the main "D-Ghat" (mercifully shortened from Dashashwamedh Ghat for our clueless benefit) with much fanfare while at daybreak, the affair is a lot more sedate, and calm follows the morning fog rolling out into dawn.



As exciting as Varanasi was, it can get very overwhelming. Nadesar Palace hotel was an oasis of peace, a retreat into blissfully-insular luxury. Converted from a Maharajah's palace, this property oozes colonial charm, and each room is named after each prominent guest that the Maharajah had hosted, including monarchs and diplomats.

For the almost-jaded traveler like myself, Varanasi proved to be the much-needed antidote. Varanasi managed to titillate my travel palate again. I am hungry for more.

For this tour, please see link: Ten Days Golden Triangle with Varanasi and Khahuraho

To learn more about Country Holidays' tours and packages, please email beijing@countryholidays.com.cn, call 8587 9263, or log onto www.countryholidays.com.cn.

Written by: Andy Nicolas Chan
Photos: Courtesy of Country Holidays