New Indian-Mexican Fusion Found at the Most Unlikely of Locales: Former Backwater, Tongzhou

One of Beijing's most exciting new fusion restaurants resides not in Sanlitun's Courtyard 4, the hutongs of Andingmen, or any other trendy hotspot. Instead, Nosh, which pairs Indian fare with Mexican flourishes, is situated in Tongzhou. Yes, you read that right, as hard as it is to fathom for those of us who lived there before 2015. I, for one, can recall the east Beijing suburb's epitome of fine dining being a KFC in 2012. Or, if my friends and I were feeling especially extravagant, we might opt for a few slices from Tongzhou's Cat's Eye Pizza (which had a penchant for covering its pies with corn niblets).


But those were different days for the long gestating district, which in 2010 was prematurely deemed to be the "Manhattan of Beijing" but is only now beginning to flourish thanks, in part, to the rise of the Wanda Plaza (and no doubt the municipal goverment's forthcoming relocation). Nosh is located in building three of that sprawling complex. It's owned and operated by a New Delhi born restaurateur named Daya Prasad who previously ran Indian eateries in locales as varied as Nanluogu Xiang and Auckland, New Zealand. While working in that Kiwi city he befriended numerous Mexican expats and began to mix and match his homeland's cuisine with theirs.

Diners at Nosh can enjoy the delicious results of those experiments, including chicken tikka and lamb vindaloo tacos (both RMB 28 for two). We opted for the latter, not knowing what to expect, and were floored by the seamless merging of such disparate cuisines. The taco's "tortilla" was soft and chewy, thanks to it being readied in Nosh's tandoori oven to the point of resembling naan bread. The curry slathered filling featured plentiful chunks of tender, mouth watering lamb and a smattering of sour cream that curbs the taco's spiciness, if ever so slightly. Indeed, these Indian infused tacos are savory enough to make you gobble them down, even as their curry's slow burn spiciness leaves your eyes watering (spice lovers, like myself, will delight in this, but patrons of milder persuasions should take greater care).

One of Nosh's equally strong fusion entries is the wonton cups. Priced at RMB 28 for three pieces, these wontons are fried to crispy perfection, until they resemble both a nacho chip and a flaky aloo pakoras fritter served at many Indian eateries as an appetizer. Inside their are loaded with a salsa-esque curry laced filling that has exciting sparks of spice, but doesn't overwhelm the palate. Together, these elements combine East Asian, Indian, and Mexican influences for a wholly unique treat.

Customers looking for less eclectic fare can instead order one of the range of curries on offer. They include RMB 45 Jaipuri chicken (made with black mushrooms, boneless chicken and thick spicy gravy); RMB 40 mango chicken curry, a more standard RMB 45 chicken tikka masala, a RMB 50 Kashmiri lamb rogan josh, and more.

We opted for that last mutton laden option, digging into its thick gravy with a side of naan bread (which comes in standard, cheese, and garlic varieties), and were quickly satisfied by its hearty, wholesome texture. It was filling but not heavy, thanks to it being readied with vegetable instead of more bloating alternatives. Its spices were also quite muted compared to the vindaloo tacos (and no doubt the other curries on the menu), making it a perfect choices for customers wary of fiery flavors.

Thankfully even Nosh's spiciest menu items can be swiftly balanced with a sip of banana lassi, emerald shaded vegetable flax seed yogurt smoothies or, best of all, the chia lemonade (all of those beverages are priced at RMB 20 per glass). A member of the mint seed family, chia has long been used in Mexican drinks for its natural energy boosting properties, and mixing those richly textured black dots into a lemonade makes for a perfect antidote to fiery dishes, be they spiced with Mexican jalapenos or Indian curry. We found this beverage to be the perfect pairing for the blazing vindaloo tacos, and a refreshing buoy during the nourishing, hearty rogan josh. It's a zesty, spritzy drink that's naturally, subtly sweet (as opposed to the sickly artificially sweeten juices that far too many venues pour out).

These creatively delicious menu items make Nosh a standout not only in Tongzhou, but all of Beijing. If more of the outlying district's restaurants follow owner Prasad's lead, then Tongzhou could finally realize its vibrant, cosmopolitan dreams.

Nosh
Mon-Tue 4pm-10pm, Wed-Sun 10am-10pm. B3-207 Ximen Gold Street, Wanda Plaza, Tongzhou District (8088 3780)
宝莱坞餐厅地址:通州区万达广场西门金街B3--207号，东头星巴克二层对面

Photos: Kyle Mullin, The Guardian