Stretch Your Waistline (and Lighten Your Wallet) with China World Summit Wing's Indulgent New Brunch

It may be an appetizer platter, but it almost feels like a meal unto itself. The opening salvo of China World Summit Wing’s new culinary barrage features a pair of juicy oysters, a melon rind topped with succulent 24-month aged Iberian ham and – wait for it – a 10g tin of Siberian sturgeon caviar.

If it’s not already obvious, calling the hotel’s new brunch indulgent would be an understatement. And hey, we’re not complaining (it’s been a long week, and who hasn’t felt like they’ve earned a tin full of caviar come the weekend?). But if we didn’t warn you to come to this brunch hungry (i.e. starving), then we’d be doing you a disservice.

After the platter, we tried a lobster bisque (made with prawn meat, cognac herb cream, and a lobster cracker; wild mushroom and beef truffle consommé are also available). It was warm and satisfying, though slightly unremarkable in terms of flavor, especially after the eye-popping tastiness of the platter, leading us to think that the soup should have been served first (or perhaps the more distinctive beef truffle option would have been a better choice).

We were more impressed by the main courses, which were even more generously portioned than the appetizer platter and impressively creative in terms of combinations. Standouts include the East-meets-West Boston lobster linguine and crispy wonton (combining lobster aglio e olio, linguine pasta with parmesan cheese, and a deep-fried pork and shrimp wonton) and the even meatier wagyu beef steak and foie gras sandwich (featuring caramelized onion and brie cheese topped Australian wagyu wedged between ciabatta bread along with pan-fried foie gras).

Satisfying as those options are, they feel like full on evening entrees, while the brunch-iest of the bunch (at least when we imagine relaxing, weekend dining) may very well be the Norwegian salmon and ocean cod benedict. The eggs had a fantastically bouncy texture with just the right amount of runniness, while the seared salmon and cod fillet topped bagel slices are wholesomely filling. Also on offer are cajun prawn black truffle eggs, and slow-roasted half chicken and portabella mushroom and – if you’re feeling especially classy – truffle and cajun prawn scrambled egg mix.

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At RMB 498 net, this brunch is very much a splurge. But added value comes courtesy of free-flow champagne if you purchase via WeChat, while more prudent parents will surely like the “kids under 12 eat free” policy. However, such a steep price is expected on a menu where delicacies like truffles, lobster, and caviar abound. If you’re going to indulge, after all, there really is no room for half measures and there’ll be even less room in your belly after you’re finished with this feast.

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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle
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Photos: Kyle Mullin, China World