Little Yunnan Opens New Bigger Venue Near Dongzhimen, Doesn't Yet Trump Original Location

We recently swung by the new branch of Little Yunnan, nestled away on Yongkang Hutong, not far from Dongzhimen. Long one of our favorite stops for Yunnan food in Beijing, it's not a surprise that the original cozy Wanfujing-adjacent restaurant was ready to expand, probably thanks to its incredible ranking as the fifth best restaurant in Beijing according to Trip Adviser reviewers.

This newer rendition is almost twice as big but unfortunately has yet to acquire the same homely and warm vibe of the original, lacking the ornaments and southern Chinese tapestries that adorn the latter's walls and opting instead for a brazen and hostel-tested approach of doling out marker pens to the city's travelers, rarely a good idea unless you want crude and misguided outpourings of national pride from the world's cack-handed.

However, if you're looking for a more private dining experience then it might be better to head here as the lantern-lit courtyard space (one element that it shares with the original location) is divided into a number of various-sized rooms, including a couple of private communal dining areas curtained off from the riff-raff. A downside to this configuration is that despite the staff being attentive, there were times when we were unable to summon anyone's attention from around our quiet corner.

Another aspect that remains the same is the menu, which has no additional offerings. In some ways this can be deemed a strength given that there's no risk of losing any of what makes Little Yunnan, at its heart, such a great restaurant in the first place.

We first opted for our usual dishes of chewy, pan-fried goats cheese (RMB 36), served with sugar and chili flakes to allow it to masquerade as both a savory and sweet dish; deep-fried green beans with pu'er tea (RMB 32), the crunchy texture of which will have you shoveling the shards of beans into your mouth as quickly as your chopstick skills will allow; and beef, mint, and chili (RMB 36), never a disappointment thanks to its thick and bouncy slabs of beef and healthy covering of whole mint leaves, fresh chilis, and vinegar. We were pleased to find that all of the dishes were reproduced exactly as we had come to know and love them.

To prove that we're not completely stuck in our ways and terrified of change, we also ordered a plate of thinly-sliced nanmi abalone mushrooms (RMB 28), notable for their particularly savory flavor and delicate but rubbery texture. This one definitely falls on the more healthier side of the spectrum than what I would usually order here but it is beautifully presented and makes for a good palate-cleanser in between heavier dishes.

Again, the braised prawns in spicy soup wouldn't be something I would normally order but chunky prawns and their vigorous kick, arising from the submerging tom yum-like soup, was certainly welcome given the cold conditions outside, the same reasons why I'll be avoiding it come summer.

All in all, Little Yunnan pt. II is a welcome addition to the northern part of town and with a little more kitting out in the decor department and a few extra dishes to set it apart from its little sister, it will hopefully evolve to something more than just additional space.

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Email: tomarnstein@thebeijinger.com
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Photos: Uni You, Tom Arnstein