Successful Peruvian Popup Pachakutiq Settles Down in SLT Soho

Though many of us might assume that Peruvian and Japanese cuisines have little in common, Francisco Chia is more than eager to take the uninitiated on a flavorful, educational journey through his homeland’s Nikkei culinary tradition.

In fact the Pachakutiq cofounder’s descriptions of the restaurant’s dishes – be it their linage from Japanese immigrants adapting their kitchen techniques to their new Peruvian surroundings, to how those sushi adept cooks became enamored by Peru’s abundance of seafood – are as vibrant and tantalizing as the food itself. We visited the Peruvian eatery earlier this winter (not long after it moved from its original CBD pop-up locale into a more permanent space that it shares with Cafe Flatwhite in Sanlitun Soho; the cafe is open during the daytime, while this Peruvian restaurant takes over the space in the evenings). While there, Chia regaled us with fun anecdotes that should have been merely mundane details. The corn used in Peruvian cuisine, for instance, became a running joke throughout the night as he recalled trying to find the vegetable as a student in America, only to realize it was sadly lacking compared to that of his homeland. “In Peru, the corn is huge!” he enthused, his eyes and grin wide, before adding: “What I found in the States is the size that we’d feed chickens.”

And while Chia makes for a gracious host, Pachakutiq’s Nikkei fare more than speaks for itself. The wasabi ceviche (RMB 70), for instance, is a gloriously flavorful introduction to the more Japanese end of the Nikkei spectrum, though its sweetness and hint of spiciness is a welcome change from the fiery globs of green stuff that we’ve grown accustomed to at many local sushi joints. Pachakutiq’s other must try ceviches include the mango variety (which is abundant with the fruit in its title, along with salmon, scallion and shredded coconut; RMB 80) and the seabass rife classic option.

Peru’s bounty of seafood is also well represented by menu items like the classic Tiradito (consisting of seabass and glazed sweet potato, RMB 50) and the stuffed squid (RMB 110). The menu’s meatier options are equally temping, especially the Nikudito beef tiradito (RMB 80). This dish’s hearty beef is torched on its upper layer and raw on its lower layer, making its flavors and textures eclectic and totally distinct.

Those dishes are rivaled in flavor and creativity by the drink list, which boasts frothy piscos in classic, kiwi, strawberry, and other tasty (and potently intoxicating) verities. The chilcano cocktails (consisting of piscos mixed with fizzy soft drinks) are every bit as good. Indeed, by the time you finish this Peruvian feast (and the buzz from the strong beverages takes hold), you’ll find yourself talking about Nikkei cuisine with as much passion as Chia.

Pachakutiq
Sun-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri and Sat 5.30pm til late. B1-239 in Sanlitun Soho, 8 Gongti Lu, Chaoyang district, Beijing (shares the same space as Flat White Coffee, opens after that cafe closes) (131- 2169 1411)
朝阳区 工体北路8号院 三里屯SOHO 2号楼B1-239

This article originally appeared in the January/February issue of the Beijinger, which you can read here via Issuu, via the PDF here, or in hard copy at all of your favorite venues across town.